Agaraura Mukhallats!

#4
I just can't wait to try out all four mukhallat's! I have enjoyed every mukhallat of Taha's that I have ever tried so I am hoping these will be no different. It will be fun comparing and contrasting The Idaino Dento and the Al-Arabiya which in Taha's own words are...
"two mukhallats that emulate two great incense traditions."
 

Taha

Well-Known Member
#7
@AbuAyoob, I personally enjoy Idaina Dento the most. I like Japanese incense a lot, and the mukhallat is a close rendition to the spicy gingery type.
Oud-intensiveness-wise, Al-Mendoos has the most oud in it - more than 90% I think. A touch of Osmanthus was all I needed to sweeten it. Given how gentle and delicate it is, its hard to imagine its almost entirely oud!

Do people have anything particular in mind they'd like?
One blend that I plan to release soon is a pure wood oil. In other words, essential oils from *only* trees. Oud, cedar, Lignum Vitae, Muhuhu, etc. Another one that's ultra dark and earthy/rooty (thanks to John Steele's fantastic Sri Lankan Vetiver). Both dark and dry mukhallats.
And another one last one which I have been getting requests for, a lot. Which is a simple oud-rose blend. This time, I want to keep it simple. Dry, clean, no musks and therefore more masculine.

I'd love to know what people want.
I wanted to make another ambergris intensive blend, but I don't have a lot left now. Bruce (can't remember his website) has a fantastic ambergris absolute, and its a real joy to work with - and even wear on its own. Its too bad that most things that are called 'ambergris' aren't really ambergris (the same with musk). With real ambergris, I find that you do get whiffs of salty marine notes here and there, but its not a dominant note itself. The aromatic molecules in real ambergris are too big for our noses to be able to continuously detect.
 
#8
I wanted to make another ambergris intensive blend, but I don't have a lot left now. Bruce (can't remember his website) has a fantastic ambergris absolute, and its a real joy to work with - and even wear on its own. Its too bad that most things that are called 'ambergris' aren't really ambergris (the same with musk). With real ambergris, I find that you do get whiffs of salty marine notes here and there, but its not a dominant note itself. The aromatic molecules in real ambergris are too big for our noses to be able to continuously detect.
Taha, are you referring to SMK fragrances and their ambergris absolute? I have been trying to get in touch with them to get some of their ambergris absolute. Hopefully I will get a response in this coming week.
 
#9
Taha, I can't wait to try your new mukhallats! I also love the idea of "wood oils only" blend and the vetiver one.

A ambergris intensive mukhallat sounds great, I've often wondered what a hint of rose, some sandalwood and a gentlest touch of musk could do to a top-quality ambergris, like the one from Bruce you've mentioned (bitter buckweat honey is what it smells like to me). Maybe even add a bit of actual honey absolute and a microdose of neroli and/or jasmine to lighten up the top notes.
 
#10
Taha, the Mukhallats you have in mind sound excellent. I would be really into the all-woods blend. I would equally enjoy a high quality Oud-rose blend. Have you ever made an Amberi Oud blend? I had Christopher's (from WLA) blend of Amberi Oud, which was Indian Oud oil in traditional Amberi Attar. That was a very interesting blend. However, I found that the Amberi notes often overrode the Oud notes, or that the Oud notes were only obvious at first, later to be dominated by the sense of Amberi. After a while, I could only really differentiate it from the Amberi Attar via comparison.

Amberi Attar is itself such an intense blend. I think a higher ratio of Oud would be required to make that blend really harmonize. While the Indian Oud did nicely accent the pungent notes of Amberi, it would be interesting to consider contrasting the notes, via a dark and bold Cambodi. (John Steele is currently selling Christopher's Amberi).
 
#12
Today is my first try of Adiana Dento. I applied liberally to both arms and beard and was surprised by 2 things, it's caramel like sweetness right of the stick and by it's rather Zen like silence. There is nothing screaming or shouting here, rather sweet whispering. Notes of Nutmeg, cinnamon greet you but are undercut and kept from cloying by the hotness of the ginger note. all of those are ridding on a carpet of Sandalwood that lacks the sharpness or the acidity found sometimes in sandalwood oils. Another surprise is the Oud itself which normally plays base, here its up with the top notes and somehow diminishes with time so that 1 1/2 hour later it's almost indiscernible. There is no fecal or Barnyard notes with this Oud ( I am assuming it is a Crassana since it's Vietnamese). It actually is more like the Bengali in how it eludes definition by changing it's characteristic over time. This is an Elevator safe mukhalate, meaning you can put it on and stand shoulder to shoulder without hoping to disappear. As a matter of fact I find it rather westerner in it's appeal. IMHO this is a Unisex Mukhalat that will appeal to both sexes. However, I can't really draw a similarity between it and Japanese granular Incense save for the Aleoswood notes in there. the Granular mixes that I have experienced were either "Dry" or "Wet" mixes of kyara or sandalwood with spiknard, cloves and Cinnamon and Herbs with varying degrees of concentration but non could qualify as a sweet smell like Adiana is.
On a personal note, I do like this Mukhalat in it's lightness and translucency, something rare among the stronger and heavier notes associated with Oud based Mukhalates. Personal Likability scale 8.5 out of 10 :)
 
#13
Lovely review masstika. I am waiting for my order to arrive from Taha and try some of the Idaina Dento.

This is a bit off-topic but since I am very inquisitive about ambergris, I was wondering if anyone has tried Douglas' ambergris absolute tincture. I haven't been able to try the ambergris tincture sold by SMK fragrances, but how do these two tinctures compare?

Thanks.
 
#14
A question for Taha...
Are you planning on another blend of the Tropica perhaps in the summer? I would love to get hold of some more of this awesome blend!
 

Taha

Well-Known Member
#17
@Mr Oud:
I have only one chunk of the ambergris absolute that I had left now. Yep, its the same one that's offered by SMK.
I wanted to make a new Tropica as well, but seems like it won't be any time soon.. : /

@Abdullah:
Khashab is almost ready. Although I love the scent (think WOOD, WOOD, and more WOOD), I am struggling with making it last long. I'm confused about why its not lasting long, especially since many of the ingredients are themselves considered fixatives (e.g. molten frankincense, Sandalwood, Muhuhu, Copaiba balsam...).
Perhaps my nose needs a break? : )
I'll return to it and see if my nose has recovered or not.

@Ahmir, I won't be making more of the old Areej, however I do plan to have a Hindi oud+rose combo oud soon too. No musks this time. I think it will be a more masculine blend.