Ensar’s Sultan Musk Attar

Discussion in 'Oud Perfumes & Mukhallats' started by Ahmed Megahed, Jul 29, 2018.

  1. Ahmed Megahed

    Ahmed Megahed Member

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    :Dhello everyone

    I couldnt help but notice the IG video of the Sultan Musk Attar- in the making.

    If this will be as i imagined- and i feel it will be- then that would be spot on my favorite type of scent-
    Sultan Leather Attar- was leather/oud/ incense/ Sultan Qaboos rose sweetness.

    Meanwhile- Sultan Red Rose was more towards the rose than the leather-oud.

    Sultan Musk Attar really would complete the Sultan Series of Perfumes in the best way possible- animalic notes of musk.

    I imagine it to be Borneo Zen’s musky notes (without the Jasmarine)- fused with the incensy/oudy signature of Sultan Leather Attar- if my imagination will correct this would be among my favorite attars.

    Lets wait and see—although i cant wait :confused::eek:
     
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  2. Ensar Oud

    Ensar Oud Well-Known Member

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    I was just wrapping up my reply to @Philip's question on the SOTD thread when I noticed this thread. Thanks @Ahmed Megahed. I think I'll post my midnight musings here for the sake of consistency, or whatever of it remains possible at this hour:
    Unfortunately the days of 'elegantly simple' are long gone, mon ami. The feature of the Sultan Leather and Sultan Red Rose Attars in Luca Turin's new Perfumes: The Guide has catapulted me into completely unfamiliar waters! All of a sudden, Borneo Zen is too 'simple' (albeit elegantly) and I'm being compared to mainstream niche perfumers (oxymoron intended) whose 'ouds' are just as pure as the Sultan Leather and Red Rose Attars. Come to think of it, that's actually true! :)

    So in short, I will need to outdo myself with this one, fortunately or unfortunately.

    There was a brother here who used to compare Purple Kinam to the scent of uncooked basmati rice. That's a start. For capturing the soft, baby skin facet of the ultimate musky drydown. (I'm torn between putting some actual Purple Kinam in there or limiting myself to just basmati's natural coumarinic powderiness.)

    Other musky jewels that I have on hand include Oud Ahmad and Santal Royale, though neither has made it into the Schott as of yet. Santal Royale is incredible in that it smells like a sandalwood musk maceration without the actual musk, thanks to the colossal Mysore grannies you were able to woo back in those days.

    Some of the floral tones of Borneo Zen will be echoed here, for the diehard Borneo Zen fans who will not be able to source Borneo Zen again, the Sultan Musk Attar superseding it as the official house 'musk frag'. I want to give you something you positively will not want to be without. As of this writing, the current batch is invariably in my clutch or my pocket, as I crave me a swipe every half-hour. Not that it doesn't last, I just want to be permanently enveloped in the top-heart phase without ever reaching the drydown (like you’d want to be reaching the climax in your loved one’s grip, perpetually, without ever reaching the climax).

    Then I have this incredible exotic pepper extract that smells muskier than muskrat. It is delicious. Facets of human sweat, grapefruit and animal musk emerge from it, taking us to a proper bestial muskiness imparted by civet, cumin, and other highly problematic aromatics. Rather than clash, they merge into an ultra-steroidal foundation for the floral musky notes that made up Borneo Zen. After their petals have fallen, we come to the soft basmati baby skin phase of the musky drydown.

    If it sounds like the olfactory version of Frankenstein, that’s only because I don't want to go overboard with marketing stories. Don't worry, after this post I plan to let the scent do all the reeking.

    'That all sounds fine and swell,' say you, 'but what about the actual musk? You told us about musky oud and sandalwood, musky peppers and spices, even musky florals and rice -- but where in all of that cacolfactophonic mess does the musk fit in?' Quite simply, in ALL of it. I want this to be a stinky naturalistic aroma that smells of animal yet arrests with its ravishing beauty. I want it to be the scent of passionate (and perfectly lawful) sex. And Musk is the backbone of it all. How do I know? I know because I blended all the same ingredients without the musk and everything fell apart like in that book by Chinua Achebe.......
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2018
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  3. Philip

    Philip Well-Known Member

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    I'm in for the ride ;)
     
  4. Ensar Oud

    Ensar Oud Well-Known Member

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    There are as many interpretations of musk as there are perfumers. Some of my friends have opted to pair musk with cinnamon and lavender, others with pine and galbanum. I choose basmati rice for the coumarinic powderiness reminiscent of the soft scent of baby skin; civet, for a doubling of all cylinders; and rare exotic spices.

    https://ensaroud.com/product/sultan-musk-attar/747
     
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  5. Ahmed Megahed

    Ahmed Megahed Member

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    Will order it very soon:cool:
     
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  6. Dorje

    Dorje Member

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    I just got this yesterday... thanks! :)

    I think this is a gorgeous composition, very traditional... A dry chypre cuminy spice-bomb like you'd expect from Guerlain decades ago, in extrait form. Also very close in character to Roja Dove's Nuwa, the original release that was notorious for it's challenging musky cumin note. I think the spices in Sultan Musk Attar (SMA) are more peppery and keep the prominent cumin note from being exclusively a human sweat/bo type note though. In any case, if you're a fan of vintage perfumery and think Sultan Leather Attar is an amazing example of a cuir fougere then you'd certainly appreciate SMA as it does the same for this type of fragrance... I'm not sure exactly what to call it but I'd guess Mitsouko may be the original of this type, I'm no expert though.

    Initial thoughts on what it smells like are spice (cumin and pepper), sweet resin, leather, cognac, sweat, skin, musk, citrus, jasmine. I identify what I think are myrrh, frankincense, lemon, cumin, pepper, jasmine, castoreum, civet, musk... probably lots more but like SLA it's well blended and forms a chypre like accord so it's hard to pick out too much.

    It will be interesting to see how this ages...

    Also, like Sultan Red Rose and Leather Attars, SMA is really a bargain at it's asking price. In a world where often the bottle is worth more than the juice, this is a rare gift... and like the other Sultan Attars I wish I could afford several bottles and there are very few fragrances I'd say that about.
     
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  7. Ahmed Megahed

    Ahmed Megahed Member

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    Thanks a lot for this detailed explaination ;)
     
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  8. Thomas S.

    Thomas S. Active Member

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    I just received my bottle this afternoon. Upon application of a tiiny drop swirls of bitter grapefruit enveloped me, closely followed by an intense "floraliciousness" of Jasmin and Rose, echoing some of the notes in Borneo Zen; while the Musk´s appareance added the finest animalic notes to the composition. I am only beginning to understand what SMA is about, but I can already tell that this is a new-born Legend... people will yearn, no: lust, for it in the years to come. Grab your bottle while you can.
     

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