The incredible reception of the Sultan Leather Attar left me totally inspired. It showed me that people were hungry for what new-school perfumery rarely gives you anymore. And more than anything, it set the stage for a new kind of cuir… Leather and oud go together like king and crown, and there’s no sweeter spot between the rustic allure of Ensar’s artisanal—often mad—oud world and popular perfumery than this oudilicious addition to the cuir tradition. A rugged aroma that makes you wonder if Hemingway just lit up a Cuban, or if Churchill’s in town. Everybody knows about my distaste for synthetics. New-age perfumers insist that working exclusively with natural aromatics is a dead-end trek. Too tricky, time-consuming—too risky. Not to mention that financially, it makes no sense. Still, overwhelming as the reception to Sultan Leather Attar had been, the constant cries of “We’re still waiting for an EDP!” finally reached boiling point… and so here we are. After 15 fragrant years, I’m finally taking off my jungle jacket for a tie, to dive headfirst into my debut EDP. But I’m sticking to my guns: no aldehydes or formaldehydes. No binders or petroleum amplifiers. Instead, journey back to Tolstoy’s days when rose meant rose, and musk not muscone. When synthetic isolates were not decreed by perfumery’s pontiffs and spraying yourself with carcinogens seemed like a bad idea. For my first Eau de Parfum to be a leather fragrance, my OCD would never let me live without showcasing it in… leather. So, we teamed up with THE leather man: Habib Dingle. The man behind the St. John’s Bible project, and the hand who bound the Pope’s personal Bible. Easily the greatest living leather artist, he works old-school with a steel chisel, not a photoshop file. Naturally, Habib doesn’t even look in the direction of pleather or touch even fine top-grain leather. That’s why EO No 1 comes showcased in naturally tanned, pure full-grain Italian calf hide. Inside the leather, you’ve got Kyaratul Mustafa—a $2,500 / 3gr oud oil exclusively used in this composition (down to the last drop); Oud Mostafa No 4 and the never-to-be-released Oud Mostafa No 6; Qi Nam Khmer V2 – one of the incense-iest Cambodis ever distilled; a kinamiferous 13-years-aged wild Sinensis extract from Hainan; and a generous dose of Santal Royale. Let this olfactory orgy binge on Sultan Qaboos’s rose, and you’ll exude wafts of a tobacco-heavy, old-school leather jacket Harley rollin’ aroma with an unmistakable Don Corleone kiss-my-hand-compagno esteem. With Sultan Leather Attar, I wanted to add an OUD-inspired rendition to the legacy of Old English Leather & Co, and offer perfume lovers the chance to experience just how amazing and exalting a fixative Artisanal Oud can be. In EO No 1, you pass third base to smell Oud & Leather drunk and in love, in a parfum that’s a first in a vibrant cuir heritage that’s been turning top hats and making hearts melt for decades. 50ml Eau de Parfum, 0% synthetics.