Oud Oil Reviews - MAIN THREAD

kooolaid79

Well-Known Member
Ensar Oud~Suriranka Senkoh

All I have is my nose. We’ve talked about resin and whether it can be expressed through distillation or only by extraction. Dear @Ensar made the valid statement that it has only been imagined by such things as heating wood and relating that scent to oils. He went further to pose the question, “how can we know what “resinous” smells like if we’ve never encountered raw resin?” I can only state some observations I’ve made with my nose.

GCMS is capable of comparing a test sample against known chemical/compound markings stored in its database; it then qualifies/quantifies found like chemicals and compounds in the test sample. Our olfactory system does a similar task; we can smell Chamkeila and say it has tobacco LIKE notes, only when we have the scent of various tobaccos stored in our scent memory. They both work by comparison.

Resin can be expressed through extraction. I only have experience with two agarwood extracts, IO’s Sinensis and Kyarazen’s KZ85. Those two products have more in common with each other than they do with the majority of agarwood oils with a few exceptions, those being oils like Chamkeila and Lalitya to a degree and the Senkoh oils to a greater extent. They both share a texturally sensational incensey core scent, both are thicker than most oils, similar quality in their viscosity and both long lasting but the scent stays close to the skin. The prominent trait that separates them from most agarwood oils though, is the scent texture and incense core scent.

Suriranka Senkoh opens with the same incense core scent as the extracts. The scent has a textural quality to my nose in much the same way as thick, pebble grained Connolly Hides in a vintage Aston Martin has to my fingertips. It’s a dense, almost fibrous, pulpy scent texture like the non-smoky, cool, condensed first whispers of a gently heated chip. The incense core fragrance lasts throughout the evolution of the oil. As it warms on the skin, the notes many love in Sri Lankan oils emerge; except the Ceylon notes here are cyan hued. The notes are not bright and diffusive like many Sri oils, rather they are heavy, somewhat muted and calming. The progression of the oil has the stillness of a hummingbird in flight as it hovers to use its long bill to coax nectar from a flower. While not a shape shifter or varied note bomb, the complexity is in the overall presentation. The oil has medium, encapsulated bubble projection and above average longevity.

I have no idea what distillation process was used to express such a scent. I also have no idea if resin is responsible for the scent texture of the extracts and the Senkoh series oils. I do know though, that they are unique and the comparison is undeniable.

If oils like Oud Nuh, Assam Kinam and Kinam Rouge were to wear oud oils, they’d likely wear oils from the Senkoh Series. Extraordinary oils.
Thank you for your beautiful review @PEARL. It’s always a delight to read your posts. Your understanding of this beautiful art of nature is acquired by a very few.
Continue to bless us with your insight, as it brings out joy and a different perspective each time.
 
What is it? Grandawood Cultivated Oud Sampler, AU$50 for five 0.1ml sample vials. See my previous review of the Wild Sampler for information about Grandawood's website and service, all of which still apply.

The Middle Easterner
Origin: "the border of Thai and Laos"
1 minute: Instant barnyard but it's (gasp) a good barnyard, heavy on the wood and lighter on the manure.
5 minutes: Complexity is increasing but so is the smoothness, with a slightly sweet cocoa note that has my mouth watering.
20 minutes: Animalic notes (I recognize them as animalic, but I'm not sure whether they are civet or castoreum or what) are making this oud a little sweaty, and not in a bad way. This is not outdoor-friendly yet, but for different reasons: it smells like hot flushed skin. Human? Bovine? Porcine? Equine? Maybe a bit of each.
40 minutes: Still major sexytime aroma. If you wear conventional eaux de parfum or toilette, an infinitesimal dab of TME underneath would boost the va-va-voom factor quite a bit, I reckon.
80 minutes: The afterglow: light fruity chypre notes. Patchouli, moss, and a fruit I can't quite identify. Finally presentable Lovers of chypre and vetiver scents are going gaga right now.
110 minutes: Still detectable and delectable. Feels (can I say this about an oil called "The Middle Easterner"?) very old-school French :D in a Mitsouko/Dioressence sort of way. Remains that way until fade-out.

Super Smooth Thai Floral
Origin: Thailand, I guess
1 minute: Glorious tuberose and jasmine. WOW this is a floral topnote mainstream perfumes can only dream of.
5 minutes: Honey sweetness and a curious salinity. It's kettle corn, but in oud oil form!
25 minutes: That dried up quickly: both the swoonworthy flowers and the salty honey are suddenly replaced by a bone-dry camphor/eucalyptus/liniment note.
40 minutes: The wood is peeking out but the camphor still dominates. It's really nice, though. It's the liniment of the gods. If Hercules had been laboring a bit too hard and hurt himself, this is what he'd rub on his sore shoulder.
80 minutes: Some of the florals have come back to join the camphoraceous party. Just like it says on the vial, this is super super smooth. The camphor "lifts" the florals so it feels almost like it's floating above my skin.
100 minutes: Soft clean skin scent until fade out.

Evergreen Superior
Origin: Vietnam
1 minute: Dirty leather and pine tree with chargrilled meat accents. I think Santa brought me a medium-rare porterhouse and left it under the Christmas tree.
5 minutes: The Christmas tree not only has a steak under it, but a cow and some cow dung as well. The main accord has taken on a dusty, antique feel, which is an interesting effect.
20 minutes: Dusty barnyard has become a little less dusty and has acquired a powdery floral tinge. Heliotrope, maybe? Not enough to make it presentable, although it is an interesting effect
50 minutes: Tea tree antiseptic joins the heliotrope, which is an interesting effect.
80 minutes: Am contemplating the tea tree/woody dry down and am considering my final verdict. It's thumbs leaning down because I didn't find it a particularly pleasing oud. Then I re-read my review above. Every sniff of this oud surprised me with something interesting. It really was an olfactory journey to parts unknown. So, thumbs up out of respect for an oud that, odd as it seems to say, feels very smart.

The Misty Forest
Origin: unknown
1 minute: Mint, tree leaves, and--weirdly, iris. Iridescent, faintly sweet, and thoroughly surprising. If you like iris notes in perfumery, you will love this. I do not like iris notes in perfumery, and therefore I do not love this.
5 minutes: The pale iridescence of the opening notes has had its purple turned way up: there's violet, heliotrope and sharp lavender. I can't honestly say I like this yet, but it sure is interesting.
20 minutes: And now we have green tea joining the party. I haven't yet mentioned it but this was publicly wearable from the moment of application and is even more so now. Complex and fascinating.
50 minutes: Still tea but with more depth as the woody notes come out. I'm really digging this now.
70 minutes: The mint is back, and now we have a dead ringer for Adore's Moroccan Mint green tea, served just the way I like it--with honey. I should add that leafy, grassy green scents aren't really my bag, and this isn't that except at the very beginning. I'd gladly wear this as an everyday scent: it's both refreshing and calming and remains that way until fade out.

Floral Superior
Origin: unknown
1 minute: Black pine pitch and road tar.
5 minutes: Whoa nelly, that's some serious barnyard. Plenty of manure along with hay and moldy wood.
20 minutes: I feel sorry for all the Grandawood customers who saw "floral" in this oil's name and bought it expecting something like Fracas. The manure note is projecting more and more. Needless to say, this is not outdoor-friendly in the least.
30 minutes: At this point I'd like to define some terms I've seen used in other, more learned reviews. Some may find them interchangeable, and by all means feel free to disagree. but I'd like to clarify the difference as I see it.
Barnyard: There's a barn, and straw, and animals plus their collected excreta, fur, leather, and wood. Maybe some grass and grains too.
Fecal: Someone just took a sh*t on the rug.
Here we have fecal. Oh boy, do we ever.
40 minutes: There's some leather intermittently peeking through but this is still extremely fecal and terribly rude. Only my solemn duty as a reviewer is keeping me from washing this off. Be grateful.
55 minutes: I didn't wash, but I did vigorously rub the spot on my arm with a paper towel. The poop is receding a little to reveal a more conventionally oudy wood scent. There's still plenty of poop though. Plenty. Sigh.
75 minutes: Even though it's 34 degrees out and the air conditioner is running, I have just put on a long-sleeved shirt to cover up the stench. If that doesn't work (this is pungent, if you hadn't guessed) I might spray some Musc Koublai Khan on top to lighten the mood.:eek:
90 minutes: I think this oud has said just about all it has to say. I've smelt the ways "barnyardy" oud" can still be complex and interesting (see The Middle Easterner, above, or The Forbidden Scent from Grandawood's Wild Sampler, reviewed earlier) but the entire olfactory drama of Floral Superior is really a trial to tolerate. Like Voltaire's Holy Roman Empire, Floral Superior is neither floral nor superior.

Which would I personally consider full-bottle worthy?The Misty Forest for sure. Super Smooth Thai Floral but mostly for that heavenly tropical-flower opening. The Middle Easterner in theory but maybe not in practice. Evergreen Superior is admirable but not really likeable, if that makes sense.

Thanks for reading.
 
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PEARL

Well-Known Member
@GalileoFigaroMagnifico thanks for the in-depth reviews. I tried one of Grandawood’s oils by way of @kesiro, not sure if farmed or wild but was a decent oil.
@PEARL your posts are as enjoyable as the oils you review. What a wonderful expression. The part about the vintage Aston Martin conjures up quite a few emotions as an Oscar India V8 Vantage coupe has been my dream car since I was in high school. Alas, a dream it shall remain.
I’m a car nut in general, old and new. I became infatuated with the Aston Martins from watching old James Bond movies; same way I first feel in love with the Walther PPK and Rolex Submariner.
 

~A Coburn

Well-Known Member
Hey there, a few people have asked for comparison between Jing Shen Lu and Taigo Senkoh, so I thought a little blurb would be helpful:

Of the two JSL is louder from the get go, it's a thicker profile with a darker overall tone. Jing Shen Lu is a marinade of fermented dark twiggy spices. Think; anise, fennel, allspice, bay leaves... etc with an herbaceous undertone and a high pitched eucalyptus profile which may be perceived as 'menthol.'

Taigo Senkoh is cayenne pepper and bright orange cantaloupe, it's a higher pitch, brighter than Jing Shen Lu by quite a few hues. It's a wispy ethereal orange where Jing Shen Lu is a hue of dark brown tinged with yellow. Both have the oscillation of wild wood, the 'it's alive' kind of feel.

Taigo Senkoh is Spring where Jing Shen Lu is Autumn...
 

Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
Multi first wear impressions of new ensar oud releases

Zazen
As it has been described by ensar oud. Bitter. Kinamic. A unique kyen note. Cambodi/Vietnamese vibe. Addictive buzzing and awesome. Strong qpr. Recommended. It is in my eyes a poor mans kinam oil. Bravo team ensar for pricing this oil correctly and for being able to churn out such insanely high quality for the price and for the base material.

Nirvata muana
I was reallly looking forward to this and I got what I asked for and then some BUT also something different than expected and something I am averesed to. Anyways let’s describe what is, rather than what I thought: Comforting. Calming. Sweet. Rooibos vanilla tea. Very light chai latte. More cream. Touch of coumarin and that unique note that I guess is muana. This special delicious and awesome note gladly takes center stage an hour after wear. What I didn’t expect and was not what I was hoping is a subtle trat nose. This oil opens as if oud yusuf after 10 plus years of aging was blended with something hindi. I know trat notes are a love or hate for many as such buyers be aware. As mentioned the Thai side quiets down fairly quickly in an hour or so and one is left with beautiful roiboos tea vanilla cream and this note that I am happy has a name: muana. Lovely.

Mustafa 7
Ultra complex. Vertically and horizontally. Each time I would approach the swiped area a different facet jumped out. It is chinese. It is Indian. It is barny. It is medicInal. It is both. Yet not on every whiff. There is a unique lotus flower note. The wood here smells long soaked and slightly fermented to my nose. Leather is there so is fruit laced tobacco. Touch sour fruit. Powerful beast but so layered and nuanced. This is evidently a super oil. It is not for me but classic hindi fans and general chienese oil lovers will absolutely love this. This oil demands your respect.

Teaser: I got a mystery oil as a kind gesture sample and AYU fans and those who missed out on it, will be thrilled. I don’t know the name origin price or anything other than an oil that to my nose is malay and ayu’s grand father. I see Logan vs Wolverine here. An aged, powerful, top but also bottom heavy malay oil chuck full of cola notes and all those delicious malay qualities that are somewhat similar to walla yet distinct. Mind you this oil is not for me and neither was ayu. But if someone wanted to see what ayu is like I think this oil will scratch that itch and likely more. It is not as ethereal and as ultra top note diffisuive as ayu but not far behind either. It does for sure have a longer finish and deeper base. There is even a suggestion of purple kinam here. Maybe like a 10% similarity.

Final closing remark: ensar has been at times criticized by some folks over his write up of his oils but I don’t get the criticism. Not once have I felt deceived. Not once the oil was something different than what was described. And not once was the oil lesser than the write up. Sure the language maybe flowery but that itself is an art and I very much appreciate reading the descriptions and back story. It adds to the enjoyment for me. I don’t see it as hyperbole. Nope. Pls continue the honest path ensar team and stick to the integrity of your work. The oils speak louder than anything else.

Now leave me alone with my muana. If green Papua is universally loved then this oil will be universally adored. At least after the Thai trat like note blows off. I am hoping there will be more muana oils and ones that put the microscope on that note and accentuate it. Yummmmm
 

Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
Thank you Rasoul for these reviews. I look forward to sampling these new releases soon.
Also, I fell off my chair when you said aged, powerful and heavy Malay :eek::eek::eek:
Gonna need that asap.
Oh yeah. This is it. Certainly worth getting excited about. It is no purple kinam but it is really satisfying and deep and loud and something all walla patta or sumba Guys wana make sure to have some. Ditto old old cambodi oils. I also as mentioned already, really think those who loved ayu and wanted more but couldn’t get it, would want to jump on this mystery oil. Ask adam coburn what is the sample I got as it literally had question mark on the label. That’s it. I don’t even know for certain the origin or age or style or price or anything. But I am calling it aged ayu like malay but deeper with ample more base and still good bit of the diffusive top notes. Not as ethereal or diffusive but close enough. I humbly speaking see it as a$450-750 a 2.5 gram kinda oil. These are just my honest uncensored gut reactions. No holding back. Me thinking out loud uninhibitedly.
 
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Simla House

Well-Known Member
Multi first wear impressions of new ensar oud releases

Zazen
As it has been described by ensar oud. Bitter. Kinamic. A unique kyen note. Cambodi/Vietnamese vibe. Addictive buzzing and awesome. Strong qpr. Recommended. It is in my eyes a poor mans kinam oil. Bravo team ensar for pricing this oil correctly and for being able to churn out such insanely high quality for the price and for the base material.

Nirvata muana
I was reallly looking forward to this and I got what I asked for and then some BUT also something different than expected and something I am averesed to. Anyways let’s describe what is, rather than what I thought: Comforting. Calming. Sweet. Rooibos vanilla tea. Very light chai latte. More cream. Touch of coumarin and that unique note that I guess is muana. This special delicious and awesome note gladly takes center stage an hour after wear. What I didn’t expect and was not what I was hoping is a subtle trat nose. This oil opens as if oud yusuf after 10 plus years of aging was blended with something hindi. I know trat notes are a love or hate for many as such buyers be aware. As mentioned the Thai side quiets down fairly quickly in an hour or so and one is left with beautiful roiboos tea vanilla cream and this note that I am happy has a name: muana. Lovely.

Mustafa 7
Ultra complex. Vertically and horizontally. Each time I would approach the swiped area a different facet jumped out. It is chinese. It is Indian. It is barny. It is medicInal. It is both. Yet not on every whiff. There is a unique lotus flower note. The wood here smells long soaked and slightly fermented to my nose. Leather is there so is fruit laced tobacco. Touch sour fruit. Powerful beast but so layered and nuanced. This is evidently a super oil. It is not for me but classic hindi fans and general chienese oil lovers will absolutely love this. This oil demands your respect.

Teaser: I got a mystery oil as a kind gesture sample and AYU fans and those who missed out on it, will be thrilled. I don’t know the name origin price or anything other than an oil that to my nose is malay and ayu’s grand father. I see Logan vs Wolverine here. An aged, powerful, top but also bottom heavy malay oil chuck full of cola notes and all those delicious malay qualities that are somewhat similar to walla yet distinct. Mind you this oil is not for me and neither was ayu. But if someone wanted to see what ayu is like I think this oil will scratch that itch and likely more. It is not as ethereal and as ultra top note diffisuive as ayu but not far behind either. It does for sure have a longer finish and deeper base. There is even a suggestion of purple kinam here. Maybe like a 10% similarity.

Final closing remark: ensar has been at times criticized by some folks over his write up of his oils but I don’t get the criticism. Not once have I felt deceived. Not once the oil was something different than what was described. And not once was the oil lesser than the write up. Sure the language maybe flowery but that itself is an art and I very much appreciate reading the descriptions and back story. It adds to the enjoyment for me. I don’t see it as hyperbole. Nope. Pls continue the honest path ensar team and stick to the integrity of your work. The oils speak louder than anything else.

Now leave me alone with my muana. If green Papua is universally loved then this oil will be universally adored. At least after the Thai trat like note blows off. I am hoping there will be more muana oils and ones that put the microscope on that note and accentuate it. Yummmmm
These were a pleasure to try!
Nothing quite like a quick coffee and a speedy drive-by swipe session! I’m not gonna say too much about them at the moment because many vials at once for a fleeting moment is no way for me to assess oils. Better to wait until they’re in my hot little hands to decipher over a longer period of time. However, Mustafa 7 was the oil that made the biggest impact on me, or perhaps was the oil that got the larger swipe. Really beautiful. Sparkling and morphing away throughout the day, and well into the late evening. Fans of Oud Shuayb should spring for a sample of this. Loved Zazen from the first swipe, as well. This one is gonna be great for the warm weather ahead. Muana will need another visit, but very intriguing. I agree with @Rasoul S in his assessment of relative rooibis-ness.
 

~A Coburn

Well-Known Member
Hello all,

I'm not sure really where to post this because it's not a 'review' per se but more of an experience... Today was absolutely chocked full of olfactory wonder and was quite a journey.

I must admit the day started off with a guilty pleasure that I haven't experienced in a long time, and I'm not talking about the feeling of drinking coffee mid-morning after abstaining from food and drink during the daylight hours of the month of Ramadan, I'm talking about the feeling of an EDP... a spray action that took me back in time and made me feel 10 years younger; there is and always will be a spiritual aspect to oud, to the ritualistic application and intention behind it, and for me there will always be something provocative about a couple of spritzes of a powerful yet debonair potion.

I was giddy as a school-boy and hours later as I entered my home, my wife's comments had me walking with my head high and with a bit of swagger. Of course I checked that at the door when I left =)

Those who know me will know that I don't like sharing too much of my personal opinion about an oud, or in this case EO No 1, especially before its arrival, because I enjoy hearing everyone else's thoughts about them more than my own, and so I'll leave it at that. But from there my day went vintage.

I'm preparing to see my father for the first time in 6 years, despite his old age he's coming to visit, to meet my wife and daughters for the first time in person. Needless to say I wanted to present him with a very special gift upon his arrival.

Out came my treasured Oud Royale 1985, the only one I have that has been sitting unopened for two years, still with the oily thumb print from Ensar on the handwritten label as he handed it to me smiling. Today I uncapped the lid, and took a deep inhale, I want it to be very special for my father so I did the unthinkable and uncorked the plastic applicator to replace it with one of the luxurious crystal applicators which Ensar is now using, along with the new velvet box, and this is when the predicament occurred... well, not a predicament, a blessing... what to do with the bit on the applicator? Swipe it of course!!!

From experience I knew that I need to wait a moment for the buildup of the years to release and for the profile to reveal itself, but having become fond of the potent opening I brought my hand up and wafted it about a foots distance to enjoy the opening vapors of the galactic Sumatran elixir. Beneath its depth lies a royal red velvet with edges of sparkling cherry-tamarind deep within the resinous body of the scent. I couldn't help but relate it to Sultani 1990 which holds the same depth and vintage tone, albeit with a slightly drier less resinous turps opening.

Later today while running errands with my sister I found myself escaping the traffic, the smog and the noise through the sweet, sultry, Sumatran scent. Nearing home I even missed a stop; my sister looked over and laughed as she saw the oud lover's notorious choreography of wrist to nose, and my complete immersion in its profile... Having to share I lent her my arm, and her sigh of satisfaction said enough, as did the smile and the "wow, where's that from" comment that followed....

Having sipped the scent a few more times before my arrival home, I noted it had lasted through several hand washes, it's 11 hours later and still pleasantly palpable where swiped!

An Olde but goody I know my father will love and appreciate it as much as me, if not more!

Thanks all, please pardon me if I've posted this in the wrong place =)
 

Philip

Well-Known Member
Thank you for sharing, Adam. I caught all the feels from your post and I pray your meeting with your father and family was all that you had hoped for.
I wholeheartedly relate and I love how much you love and revere OR85. After 14 long months of arduous and determined searching, I finally was able to land a bottle recently. As far as I'm concerned, OR85 is my #1 favorite of all time. Followed, of course, by OS90 and TW95. So yeah, I double and triple like your post.
 

Thomas S.

Active Member
Oud Extraordinaire
A young, playful oil. The initial hit has tons of sweet notes - as if you inhale deeply over a bag of roasted sugar-coated almonds. There is a note of beeswax that I particularly like. Floral notes, like cherry blossom, also swirl around in the sweet scent. In the beginning the oil reminded me of Dom Kwan since I get similar wild flowers and honey notes.
After a few minutes there´s a switch to more resinous notes. About twefifteen to twenty minutes in a slightly woody suede leather note sweeps into the sweet floral notes…. from here on, the oil becomes gradually more resinous, incense-y, deeper. I get a fresh pine resin note that seems to boost and deepen the sweeter notes.

Sillage and projection are quite good...a tiny drop on my wrist and I can smell the scent even when my arm is not lifted to my nose. This oil is thick so a tiny amount will perfume you for quite some time.

Now lets get to the elephant in the room: Ishaq. Oud Extraordinaire was compared to Oud Ishaq. Well, Oud Ishaq was distilled from 40-year old organic wood, so it´s easy to jump to that assocation.
But Oud Ishaq was distilled in 2008 and when it was released it was already aged some years. A young fresh-from-the-still oil such as Oud Extrardinaire cannot be the same. It lacks the advantage of aging for several years. Well, I dug out my Ishaq bottle and did a side-by-side comparison. There some notes - notes that are not as prominent as in Ishaq - that I also find in OE. There is a resinous pine-sap-and-a-hint-of-cannabis note that I find in both oils, as well as some honey and flower notes.
And both are sticky like no other oil (with possibly Dom Kwan coming close, too).
Other than that, Ishaq and Oud Extraordinaire do not have that much in common... or maybe we need to wait a few years to see how OE develops.
 

Attachments

Tuff

Active Member
Santal Sultan Privee

Originally I was going to save up for one expensive oud oil, but opted for a Tola of this instead. Within the last few years, my skin becomes itchy and leathery in the spot I apply my oud or attars. I don't break out in hives, but there is a mild irritant on the skin present for 48 hours after wearing. Sadly, one of my favorites, sultan leather attar, gives me a bit of asthma, which really bums me out since it was one of my best projecting oils. For any of you with skin allergies, you should know that sandalwood causes -zero- reactions on my skin. Your mileage may vary, but I'm willing to bet money that 99.9% of people will not develop an allergic reaction to sandalwood. I would have to confirm the rumors of the antiseptic properties of sandalwood, since I experience them firsthand. So now I alternate either an oud or attar, then sandalwood for a few days, then repeat. In the past I would wear a combo of Santal Sultan and Santal Royale, or Laosan 1999 with Mysore 1984. I always felt that one of the Santal's was lacking something and would try to pair it with something to correct it. The Sultan needed the royale for musky notes and longevity, the Laosan needed the mysore 1984 for the same reason. Wearing four swipes at once tends to deplete the collection faster, but made the scent more palatable to me. I debated just mixing all my bottles into one giant pyrex and cutting the swipes in half, but I always thought there is a chance I would screw it all up and turn it into one very large Monet water lily painting, and regret it later. Enter Santal Sultan Privee.

This isn't really a repeat of Santal Sultan at all, although the opening of it is very much identical. You will still get a huge bass note explosion at the 15 minute mark that is the hallmark of Santal Sultan, but it is tempered by the freshness of the mysore. The original santal sultan would only last four or so hours, it was a total tease, but a heavenly one. Anyone who smelled my santal bottles always remarked 'oh my' when they smelled the sultan. Very different profile than normal, taiko drums front and center, no sexy notes, just smacks you like a russian slapping contest, over and over until you admit defeat. You still get that for the first two hours, but now the smell dissolves into a very pleasing ancient mysore note. It's not totally musky like royale (although the mysore in privee is probably the same exact wood as royale), and it's not a haarp emitter on the wrist just making a 4 hz note in perpetuity like mysore 1984. It's a new cyborg hybrid courtesy of distilling everything together. The smell doesn't come in waves, like when I wear my separate swipes, but as Dmitry Bortnikoff would say, 'It is LIKE ROCK!' It is one smell with many facets. You could probably recreate this smell by combining the original sultan with some 1984 and some royale, but it would still never be 'like rock', from distilling it all together. The mysore in privee is so high quality it actually has a perfume note to it, similar to ambergris, the muskyness in it doesn't come out to play till after 4 hours or so, it feels slightly different than the royale wood. Projection is almost as strong as 1984, but the scent is much more nuanced. I would say the blend is 1/4 Santal Sultan wood and 3/4 mysore wood. Are the woods better than the originals? ....Maybe, I suspect the mysore might be a tad better than the royale wood used, although even if not, you'll never find the sultan profile again, and certainly not co-distilled with an old mysore to make it last 8-10 hours instead of 4-5. Maybe Ensar can enlighten us if the woods are better than the originals distilled. I'm not sure if there is a better Santal out there anywhere than this, unless Ensar is hiding some holy grail in a vault. How does it feel to wear this? Kinda like this (dedicated to Chappie):

 
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Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
Santal Sultan Privee

Originally I was going to save up for one expensive oud oil, but opted for a Tola of this instead. Within the last few years, my skin becomes itchy and leathery in the spot I apply my oud or attars. I don't break out in hives, but there is a mild irritant on the skin present for 48 hours after wearing. Sadly, one of my favorites, sultan leather attar, gives me a bit of asthma, which really bums me out since it was one of my best projecting oils. For any of you with skin allergies, you should know that sandalwood causes -zero- reactions on my skin. Your mileage may vary, but I'm willing to bet money that 99.9% of people will not develop an allergic reaction to sandalwood. I would have to confirm the rumors of the antiseptic properties of sandalwood, since I experience them firsthand. So now I alternate either an oud or attar, then sandalwood for a few days, then repeat. In the past I would wear a combo of Santal Sultan and Santal Royale, or Laosan 1999 with Mysore 1984. I always felt that one of the Santal's was lacking something and would try to pair it with something to correct it. The Sultan needed the royale for musky notes and longevity, the Laosan needed the mysore 1984 for the same reason. Wearing four swipes at once tends to deplete the collection faster, but made the scent more palatable to me. I debated just mixing all my bottles into one giant pyrex and cutting the swipes in half, but I always thought there is a chance I would screw it all up and turn it into one very large Monet water lily painting, and regret it later. Enter Santal Sultan Privee.

This isn't really a repeat of Santal Sultan at all, although the opening of it is very much identical. You will still get a huge bass note explosion at the 15 minute mark that is the hallmark of Santal Sultan, but it is tempered by the freshness of the mysore. The original santal sultan would only last four or so hours, it was a total tease, but a heavenly one. Anyone who smelled my santal bottles always remarked 'oh my' when they smelled the sultan. Very different profile than normal, taiko drums front and center, no sexy notes, just smacks you like a russian slapping contest, over and over until you admit defeat. You still get that for the first two hours, but now the smell dissolves into a very pleasing ancient mysore note. It's not totally musky like royale (although the mysore in privee is probably the same exact wood as royale), and it's not a haarp emitter on the wrist just making a 4 hz note in perpetuity like mysore 1984. It's a new cyborg hybrid courtesy of distilling everything together. The smell doesn't come in waves, like when I wear my separate swipes, but as Dmitry Bortnikoff would say, 'It is LIKE ROCK!' It is one smell with many facets. You could probably recreate this smell by combining the original sultan with some 1984 and some royale, but it would still never be 'like rock', from distilling it all together. The mysore in privee is so high quality it actually has a perfume note to it, similar to ambergris, the muskyness in it doesn't come out to play till after 4 hours or so, it feels slightly different than the royale wood. Projection is almost as strong as 1984, but the scent is much more nuanced. I would say the blend is 1/4 Santal Sultan wood and 3/4 mysore wood. Are the woods better than the originals? ....Maybe, I suspect the mysore might be a tad better than the royale wood used, although even if not, you'll never find the sultan profile again, and certainly not co-distilled with an old mysore to make it last 8-10 hours instead of 4-5. Maybe Ensar can enlighten us if the woods are better than the originals distilled. I'm not sure if there is a better Santal out there anywhere than this, unless Ensar is hiding some holy grail in a vault. How does it feel to wear this? Kinda like this (dedicated to Chappie):

a terrific write up and i find in full agreement with you. the heft and longevity of the privee is beyond any other sandal oil. the balance of alpha and beta santanol is a thing of beauty here.
 

~A Coburn

Well-Known Member
Oud Ertugrul
A purple Borneo?

A friend of mine from London WhatsApped me as I head towards bed last-night with an emergency....

"Is it really similar to Purple Kinam?" He said, "...Purple... In your opinion?"

As a die-hard lover of Borneos with a heart for Iris he just had to know...

Admittedly I had only taken a small whiff in passing from the applicator because EO No 1 2019 was taking all of my attention (all morning with close observation) and I hadn't picked up a distinctly purple chord... I got a Borneo liqour so deep it 'tinged' purple, but the Kinam note evaded me...

"I'll revisit tomorrow, " I told him as by that time my olfactory senses had long since tapped out, and my mind was half asleep.


Tomorrow became today, and first thing this morning I went to the atelier for another glimpse at this thread of purple kinam questioned about.

A single drop on the tester strip, and one on my hand, and instantly: *BOOM*


This Borneo's gone extraterrestrial!
Oud Ertugrul association.jpg

With most Borneos out there you can take your pick of profiles: damp earth or dry mud, the choice is yours...

Up the quality several tiers and you get Borneo 3000 with its Hainanese Kyara Skin nuances and silky smooth texture but never once had I smelled a Purple hued Borneo. Check out Borneo 3000 Legend or myth, and you'll see in the graph there hasn't even been a profile close to it!

The best part is that it's not just purple, it's straight up KINAM.

To those who missed out on PK here's your chance to REJOICE cause you're getting a glimpse of it right here.

Adiós New-Guinea Sultans and Merhaba Oud Ertugrul!
With this aesthetic (and price point) I'm hoping that Oud Ertugrul is the father of a new generation of Sultans?!?!? Or perhaps we've just retraced the Sultan Lineage back to its beginning... Either way, Oud Ertugrul takes my love of Borneo to galactic new heights.

It's one of those benchmark distillations that's a must have for any collector, and a must-wear for any lover of Borneo!

Note: the application was at 9:20 this morning, and as I write this at 2:35 pm it's still going strong, perceptible from a distance, even with just a single drop applied to the back of my hand.

It'll last on the scent strip for a few more days, and I'll be enjoying it all the while!




 

Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
ok. time to get back to the oils and playing a bit of a catch up here. i was more or less off oils and focused on wood and incense in the past few months or so. oils are calling, and i am here to answer the call...

below are based on 1-2 wears only further studies are required.
ensar oud chiem po qi:
an ethereal and finsssed cambodi. as a whole category cambodi oils are not my to go oils and at times i have been challenged by them and dslike their twang and sharp terpy notes. here on the other hand, you have a lovely crassna. hints of chinese and even vietnamese origin. nice abstract floral and zesty notes. hints of that chinese neroli/orange peel note. with time more bitter notes (vietnam like) and more green notes (also more vietnam like) emerge. then it becomes clear that is not just any green but green oolong like tie guan yin. this oil reminds me of one other oil somewhat: agar aura's kanzen which happens to be my fave modern day cambodi oil to date. the best cambodi to date is kambodi 76 from ensar.
in sum: very wearable. elegant beyond words. while outward and very good projection, the quality of the scent is rounded and refined. no sharp edges or spiky notes here. a winner.i love it.

ensar oud aroke roshi:
the opening note of petrichor, dry soil and some dust. this is not a muddy, wet maroke. the opening note is not for me, but subjectively speaking. its a me thing...
development is nice: notes of jaya96 wood with a slightly sweet, soft black cumin note mixed with dark wood and mysterious notes.
drydown: ghost of XLL the mightiest of maroke oils pokes it head out with distinct violet and dark narcotic purple floral notes. no sweet lilac or iris here. we are in violet country and those purple flowers from avatar...
in sum: if you read what you like this is what you gonna get. i love the dry down, and actually really like the mid-development stages. opening note is not fo me.

ensar oud sri serene:
wow. what a knock out the opening of distinct mimosa and jasmine florals. the single most important quality in this oil is how soft-spoken, well manred and delicate (not light) the quality of the fumes are. there is that buzz here but in a softer package. wallas are almost always sharp, angular and penetrating with force. razor edge and sobering! not this. not here. lovely lovely stuff. feminine, pretty and may just be the most western friendly oil to date?
dry down has a similar woody note to Sin x: not quite cedar plank hut on the beach but like a wood workshop. despite swimming in a collection of walla oils and frankly not loving many of them, i am actualy thinking about a full bottle purchase of this one. fantastic oil. could be the official state scent of hawaii.

ensar oud ertugrul:
no doubt about the higher tier source material and vastly superior distillation. at the moment i find myself out of love for borneo in general and malinau in particular. those who read me and know me, know that i have for the longest time held a very very very special place for malinau and own and cherish many top tier oils from there. i guess i over did it and now i have an aversion to them. maybe is the change of seasons or who knows what. i just hope that i fall back in love with them by the time winter is over and spring is here.
i was expecting a less obvious borneo profile and more of that static nose tingling buzz (is there but i thought it would be more). i also thought i will see a resemblance however small, to purple kinam. i dont. i will have to study this oil further but not quite now or soon. ill wait a while as right now my mind zeros in on the vanillic, raspberry, cinnamon dusted sugary confected creamsicle profile.
adam is bang on with the b3k refference. no doubt a higher grae oil here, but sadly for me, too close to the malinau profile (30-40% resemblancee?). will have to retry asa blind oil down the road and see how it speaks to me then.

ensar oud american oud:
contender for qualty price ratio oud of the year. i cant believe how fantastic this oil really is. i keep trying to find something about it i dont love as to not buy a full bottle, yet i cant find any flaws. the harmony of the compistion is bang on. so intgrated and perect that is impossible to beleive it is a post distill blend of various origins. mighty complex (vertically and horizantally speaking). plenty of ooomph and power. this is a sultan oil in every way except price. run and buy. dont even walk. this here is a rare breed and soemthing you dotn want to be left without. both the spray and oil version are solid. serious value in oil form. great 3d projection in spray form. more progression steps in oils form, more comign at you from all directions in spray form. count me in as super impressed, despite initial pesimism before even ever trying it. eating a humble pie...

profile wise i get awesome walla, sumatra, even a green png phase as well as some suggestions of crassna (cambodi/thai). but is almsot like a new specieis or region discovery. try for yourself. i am lost for words. love this oil.

agar aura hulubalang:
contender for quality price ratio oud of the year? certainly along with chiem po qi and even more so American oud. a terrific gooey, resinous, deliciously purple and cola rich malay oil. punches way above its weight and very much an awesome buy. an oil with plenty of mind buzz too. run before is all out.

agar aura royal jerai:
unique oil. totally new profile for me. muddled wild strawberry cake note. dense, rich. good gentle type of sour. plenty of mind buzz. unlike many of agar aura oils, there is a oudy oud marrow dry down here. the scent of those awesome resins and wood clinging to your sinuses when heated on medium + temp. beautiful stuff

agar aura mardelong:
not for me. it is the least sweet and most bitter/naunced thai oil i ahve tried but still for me and my taste, i cant shake off the dried prunes and apricot notes. it is a quality oil. no doubt. if you like yusuf you will love this. just not for me.

agar aura kirana:
another malay oil but one that is more vietnam with its bitterweet, kinamic, yellow note. somehow i am indifferent towards this oil though. there is nothing here i dont' like or even remotely dislike, yet i dont exactly get excited by it either. not sure why. i have kept a bit to try down the road...
 

Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
Ps wearing American oud again before bed and I am getting a blast of that clean dark tea and hint of leather Hindi profile. I previously saw it as more of a laos profile as I have come to know it, but no, it is a more Hindi profile which is fitting considering the Manipur component. It doesn’t toast long st all though. This facet quickly hides and plays coy. Mostly hiding. A little tease and back in the dark shadows again... love this oil. Playful. Engaging charming.
 

Rasoul S

Well-Known Member
American oud again right now. Loving this oil. Again the words that came to mind thru out the progression was what a seamless balance. Some days like today the manipur opening is somewhat sticking out but other days it can’t even be easily scene. It is always there doing its thing but interesting game of hide and seek. Great oil. I love it.

Ertugrul is indeed more than I experienced the first go. It is till bit too much Malinau for me (remember I am in a period of fallen out of love with malinau. Can’t see it lasting too long though as I already was able to very much enjoy this oil).

there is indeed a purple vibe. Is certainly not the yellow (b50k) orange (royal malinau, white kinam) or red (borneo 3k, borneo Diesel). There is plenty of mind buzz showing here originating from those incense grade (or some higher grades even?). I don’t really get PK but there is a kinamic vibe in the way this oil vibrates. An element of super sonic is in this fat Full big oil.

chiem po is still enjoyed but has gone a tier lower in my eyes since first go around. Originally I really enjoyed it over kampong seila. But not now that I have spent more time with it. What caused this mi or slip is that twangy cambodi note that pokes it head out mid development stages. Mind you it is certainly lower in volume compared to most cambodi but still for a cambodi sensetive nose, it is noticeable.