REVIEWS

Discussion in 'Oud Oil' started by bhanny, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    totally under priced oil. brand builder/cash flow oil i guess. seriously people, buy this oil blind and trust me you can't go wrong. i have. got me 2 bottles.
     
  2. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    EO Oud Royale Sri Lanka baby.

    I have had lota exposure to lota different walla patta oils tinctures and agarwood chunks and chips from various suppliers. This oil somehow comes across as an embodiment of all those scents in one.

    I get the ethereal green blue oceanic subtle beauty of surirankah and imperial oud Ceylon royale. But I get that supe frosty minty very green hirta from agar aura in the mix too that is quite clear. Mango skin papaya and dried mango of imperial oud sri pada but in a more integrated and less overt style. I get the cinnamon and orange peel vanilla ice cream notes of malinau oils as well as Sri Lankan oil like adhII again by imperial oud. There is a toffee caramel sweetness and super high resinated walla chip on burner at medium plus note that becomes more front Center after 30-45 min post application. Best walla patta chips I have come across so far we’re via shareef. Thick resinous tiny crystallized nuggets. This oudd heart has those chuncks on medium plus heat note. That classic bitter green gently medicinal mind buzzin ensar signature in oils like kinamantan, port moresbey and sultan abdus selam is also present here. Like a gin and tonic kind of bitter medicinal note but one that actually tickles the mind.

    This is as much of a medicine and mild to medium strength pschyactive oil as is a great scent. I am experiencing out of body like experience. Seeing myself and my surrounding from a birds eye point of view. Ie in a complete present moment meditative state.

    Sad news: wife doesn’t like the scent. Found it to terpene heavy and bug spray and chemical. Her words :( Neighbor stopped by and was obviously asked to smell my wrist and he too found it overbearing. Not me though. While I agree the silage is enormous and oil highly powerful I love it. Not in my top3 oils but close to it.

    A littl lightheaded from countless deep sniffs. Gonna go nap a little. Lol.

    Bravo ensar team for a strong quality price ratio oil.
     
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  3. kesiro

    kesiro Well-Known Member

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    Exactly right! I have been beating this drum ever since my first sniff of this incredible oil.
     
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  4. kesiro

    kesiro Well-Known Member

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    @Rasoul S Glad you like the ORSL. I get a feeling this oil will be legendary in a few years.
     
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  5. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    How do you think this oil will show in 1, 3, 5, or 10 years? Lose some top. Less top notes and more of the heart and base drydown take Center stage?
     
  6. kesiro

    kesiro Well-Known Member

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    Good question. I guess I really do not know what happens that far down the road with Sri Lankan oud. I assume it also depends on the storage, i.e. bottle full so minimal oxidation vs. more air in. So far, some aging for sinharaja x has not resulted in any loss of top, only a richer, headier scent. Ensar?????
     
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  7. Ensar Oud

    Ensar Oud Well-Known Member

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    The answer to that question varies greatly, depending on how the oil was distilled. Some top-heavy oils are bound to lose their 'charm' as they grow older if the heart and base segments are not solid and complex enough. Let me explain.

    In reality, oud doesn't have anything to do with 'top notes.' At least not in the same way bitter orange, rosewood, lavender, and black pepper do; these are proper 'top notes' so far as perfumery is concerned. From the point of view of a perfumer, the word 'oud' never comes up when talking about 'top notes' going into a blend. Oud is a base note. Just like sandalwood. And vetiver. And musk. – So, what are we really talking about when we talk about 'top notes' in a pure oud?

    In reality, the top notes are the crux and apex of the so-called 'auxiliary' notes. You know how they say about traditional Indian oud that you need to 'give it 10-15 minutes' for it to 'open up' and the funk to 'go away?' Well, that applies not just to Indian oud, but to ALL oud, traditional & modern, conventional & unconventional. The 'top notes' are a byproduct of distillation: that particular set-up's chemical interactions with the feedstock as it cooks. Distillation is very much like alchemy, where you can take a piece of wood that smells nothing like fruits or vanilla or 'algae' and coax these notes out of that wood by subjecting it to a series of chemical interactions.

    As a general rule: Unless the 'top notes' smell like the piece of wood itself did prior to getting distilled, without any heat being applied, the top notes are a fraud. The only top notes that are not 100% auxiliary are the ones that reflect the smell of the unheated wood prior to distillation. Period.

    An oil that doesn't have these kind of top notes that are palpably reminiscent of, say, walla patta chips you've personally experienced, either raw or under extremely low heat, is an auxiliary note-heavy oil and it will likely not mature into anything worth writing home about. Top notes are lost with age, and all you have left once the oil fully matures is the quality of the agarwood that went into the pot – that which you smelled after giving the oil 10 minutes for its 'true' character to come out.

    Another way of looking at it: If the top notes do not get prolonged and keep humming well into the 'heart' phase while retaining their character intact, they're not from the wood. The wood only shows itself fully and without fail during the heart phase. Here's a crude illustration: The top notes smell like horse manure. Ten minutes in, you start to get an interesting sweet woodiness come out. The woodiness is what the wood smelled like. It (the wood) had nothing to do with horse manure. The manure is there because of the way the wood was processed. It is a chemical reaction and a byproduct of, in this case, fermentation. There are many other scenarios, such as if the wood is chemically altered in some way prior to distillation. The type of condenser that is used. The type of soaking barrel. The mineral content of the water used to soak. The mineral content of the water used to cook. Etc.

    I predict that Oud Royale SL will not lose any top notes as it ages because the only top note I detect in it myself is a still note due to the relatively young age of the oil (August 2017). This still note will eventually disappear and the 'top chord' that hits you within a minute of application will become more dominant and extend deeper and deeper into the 'heart' phase, which will display characteristics of traditionally heated (medium heat) well-resinated walla chips.

    As I discussed in another thread, 'green,' 'oceanic,' 'salty,' and 'algae' have nothing to do with the wood going into the pot. These are imaginary semblances unique to the psyche of the wearer (especially if that wearer is you, Rasoul! =P). They are NOT in the wood. Agarwood does NOT smell like algae. And it does NOT smell like vanilla. And it does NOT smell like any other thing that comes to your mind when examining an oil. These are fictive 'metaphors' your mind supplies in order to 'explain' a new experience to itself. If you're not a distiller, you cannot properly dissect an oil's profile in order to comprehend the wood that went into its production. Saying you can do this is as realistic as me saying I can probably hammer someone's spinal deformity straight if given a hammer and the right tools. Without the experience of a spine surgeon, I wouldn't be able to do squat.

    THE most deceiving thing to consider when evaluating an oil is its price tag. The assumption that something is superior because it is priced higher can lead to a kind of prejudice few noses are able to sniff through. I've smelled oils that cost thousands that I know cost hundreds to produce. And vice versa: Oils that cost hundreds which it would take thousands to reproduce. There is nothing more misleading than smelling an oil that goes for, say $350, and then another oil that sells for double that price, and assuming the more expensive oil is superior. Nothing can be more prejudicial than price.

    Food for thought? Consider the price of Chugoku Senkoh. What exactly does it tell you about Chugoku Senkoh?
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  8. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely brilliant article. Thumbs up !
     
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  9. kesiro

    kesiro Well-Known Member

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    Well, for those of us here who routinely exhibit "information seeking behavior", Ensar, thank you for that info-gasm. The information we get here is just unmatched.
     
  10. kooolaid79

    kooolaid79 Well-Known Member

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    I urge everyone to read this and reread it again a couple of more times after. A wealth of knowledge and information written about the price, costs, and marketing on what it takes for Oud to be distilled.
    http://agarwood.ensaroud.com/oud-or-bitcoin/
     
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  11. Kswer

    Kswer Member

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    As a newbie it is great to be able read posts such as this. Helps place things in perspective and removes false assumptions.
     
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  12. PEARL

    PEARL Well-Known Member

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    Agarwood Assam~Kanglei there is something that Zakir at Agarwood Assam stated about this agarwood oil, that I can not agree with.

    "KANGLEI is a beast which will eat HASTAKSHAR KALAKASSI with no remorse! no burrp!"​

    I'm a huge fan of Hastakshar Kalakassi, and while it and Kanglei do have the punchy characteristics that we love in Hindi oils, on my barn-o-meter neither oil is overtly barny but rather the barn in both is well integrated into the overall scent spectrum; but frankly, Kanglei is much too smooth to "eat" HK. So Zak, if you mean that Kanglei tops HK in ferocity, I can't agree. If you mean that Kanglei "eats" HK by walking right up and sweeping his fair lady off of her feet, then yes I agree. And it does so with the panache of Rostand's Cyrano de Bergerac, and the charismatic charm of famous lovers like Pearl, Casanova, Don Juan and Lord Byron.
    Kanglei starts with velvety, sueded tones of cocoa, hay and the nutty sweetness of lightly roasted Jamaican Blue Mountain arabica coffee bean. Kanglei is a medium brown hued, viscous oil that leaves a non-sticky, non-greasy sheen on the application site. I don't know when it was distilled but it's more refined and seems more aged than HK, lacking any still notes that I can detect. As Kanglei progresses it takes on notes of tobacco leaf and the rounded, spicy aromatics of crushed green cardamom provide a subtle hint of fruitiness. It has slightly above average projection, excellent longevity and is another solid, perennial Hindi entry from Agarwood Assam, kudos Zakir!!!
     
  13. kesiro

    kesiro Well-Known Member

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    @PEARL You are spot on sensei. Kanglei is a smoooooooooth boy. Rico Suave in Hindi form. Velvety was the first word that came to my mind at initial application. It does have a hint of the HK zing buried in there but you have to really look for it hard. Different beast all together though. Now the new Kalakassi, that's another story....
     
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  14. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Well-Known Member

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    @PEARL Superb review sir. Love it. Sadly I could never try Hastakshar. I am loving his Arem Sung so much. Intense oil. Did you happen to try that one ? Would love to hear about it from you esp the dry down which kicks in quite late. Cheers
     
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  15. PEARL

    PEARL Well-Known Member

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    @Nikhil S I haven't tried Zakir's Arem Sung, but it and his Kalakassi Aagaz come highly endorsed by @kesiro, and that says a lot; he did mention that Arem Sung was a powerful and full bodied oil.
     
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  16. Nikhil S

    Nikhil S Well-Known Member

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    Powerful and full bodied. Great description by brother Kesiro. The drydown has a special Naga surprise. Aaghaaz I need more time with it :)
     
  17. Tuff

    Tuff Active Member

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    Review - Kinamantan from EO:

    Since Rasoul loves this so much I thought I could say a little sumtin sumtin. From just the bottle, it reminds me very much of Borneo 5000. The most delicious blue lotus note on the planet mixed with the borneo series wood/scotch pine note. However, unlike Borneo 5000, the blue lotus note exists within the wood/distillation itself, it is not an add on layer. The smell is also twice as strong from the bottle as Borneo 5000. I remember swiping my wife's sister in the Philippines with Borneo 5000, and her response 15 minutes later was, 'It smells like the blessings of the saints'. Kinamantan also reminds me of something you would save for exalting scenarios. If you would like to vibrate on a higher/deeper wavelength, this oil would be a good start.

    When you first apply the oil, it goes on kind of mellow. It is not a tiger roar like the smell from the bottle would have you believe. The first notes you get are the lotus notes, very perfumy with a nice wow factor. Even my wife considers this a perfume, not an oud. This makes Kinamantan extra special since both my wife and I can wear it at the same time. Wonder twin powers, activate. The pine forest slowly comes into view around 30 minutes later, and within 45 minutes this oil is projecting a good 5-10 feet away, kicking some serious ass. When my wife and I wore it together, we had to roll down the window in the car a little bit, the smell was overpowering and making us dizzy. The lotus is still there, grounding the smell in a female embrace, but the testosterone has become impossible to ignore. Since I don't own any Port Moresby, I can't pick out that note in the smell, so i'll have to take everyones word on that one. It was mentioned in the Port Moresby description that wearing it is like being high while being sober. I can concur that Kinamantan had the same effect. I chose my work Christmas party as the debut for when my wife and I would both wear it, and I guarantee others noticed but never commented. It makes you feel rich, no matter if you wear jeans or slacks. When worn in conjunction with your wife at the same time, you both go through a sort of vulcan mind meld, and I had flashbacks on Ecstasy experiences I had when young - the same sort of frank conversations, the same sort of egolessness, and the same sort of strong sexual connections.

    Is it a Chateau Lafite? Maybe not, I'll have to get some Moresby to confirm some day. Is it an Opus One? Most assuredly. It is more like a David Bruce Pinot Noir Estate 2007 (I have the pleasure of living 5 miles from this amazing vintner), it is a treasure that not many know about, but those that know, know it blows the over hyped Opus One out of the water.
     
  18. kooolaid79

    kooolaid79 Well-Known Member

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    Man what a awesome review @Tuff! Thank you so much for that! Your insight and understanding of this precious gift of nature is just remarkable! Salute to you Sir!!
     
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  19. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful. Above highlighted sections particularly spoke to me. Sadly I wasn’t around for borneo 5k.
    As for port moresbey, kinamantan is more open knit, more top note celebration, prettier, airier and outward compared to deeper darker more inward port M. Both wonderful and I won’t kick either out of bed but kinamantan speaks to me differently.

    As for wine comparison i see kinamantan in language of Cali cab as dunn. howell mountain cool micro climate mid high elevation vineyard. There is charm and approachability as in almost all new world wines but there is regal and serious backbone behind it. Opus is too “made” and “showy”.
     
  20. RobertOne

    RobertOne Well-Known Member

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    Claypot Trat 2017.

    Upon application to four hours later the scent remains constant and expresses powdered lilac, a hint of dried lavender if it were from an 18th century apothecary.

    Also present is a phenolic note curiously bound to fermenting fruits.

    It reminds me somewhat of EO Oud Yusef but is rougher around the edges with the fruits and flowers less clearly defined. I am tempted to conclude that it could benefit from a few years in the flask, it has potential.
     
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