REVIEWS

Discussion in 'Oud Oil' started by bhanny, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    Oh yeah. This is it. Certainly worth getting excited about. It is no purple kinam but it is really satisfying and deep and loud and something all walla patta or sumba Guys wana make sure to have some. Ditto old old cambodi oils. I also as mentioned already, really think those who loved ayu and wanted more but couldn’t get it, would want to jump on this mystery oil. Ask adam coburn what is the sample I got as it literally had question mark on the label. That’s it. I don’t even know for certain the origin or age or style or price or anything. But I am calling it aged ayu like malay but deeper with ample more base and still good bit of the diffusive top notes. Not as ethereal or diffusive but close enough. I humbly speaking see it as a$450-750 a 2.5 gram kinda oil. These are just my honest uncensored gut reactions. No holding back. Me thinking out loud uninhibitedly.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2018
  2. Simla House

    Simla House Well-Known Member

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    These were a pleasure to try!
    Nothing quite like a quick coffee and a speedy drive-by swipe session! I’m not gonna say too much about them at the moment because many vials at once for a fleeting moment is no way for me to assess oils. Better to wait until they’re in my hot little hands to decipher over a longer period of time. However, Mustafa 7 was the oil that made the biggest impact on me, or perhaps was the oil that got the larger swipe. Really beautiful. Sparkling and morphing away throughout the day, and well into the late evening. Fans of Oud Shuayb should spring for a sample of this. Loved Zazen from the first swipe, as well. This one is gonna be great for the warm weather ahead. Muana will need another visit, but very intriguing. I agree with @Rasoul S in his assessment of relative rooibis-ness.
     
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  3. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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    Hello all,

    I'm not sure really where to post this because it's not a 'review' per se but more of an experience... Today was absolutely chocked full of olfactory wonder and was quite a journey.

    I must admit the day started off with a guilty pleasure that I haven't experienced in a long time, and I'm not talking about the feeling of drinking coffee mid-morning after abstaining from food and drink during the daylight hours of the month of Ramadan, I'm talking about the feeling of an EDP... a spray action that took me back in time and made me feel 10 years younger; there is and always will be a spiritual aspect to oud, to the ritualistic application and intention behind it, and for me there will always be something provocative about a couple of spritzes of a powerful yet debonair potion.

    I was giddy as a school-boy and hours later as I entered my home, my wife's comments had me walking with my head high and with a bit of swagger. Of course I checked that at the door when I left =)

    Those who know me will know that I don't like sharing too much of my personal opinion about an oud, or in this case EO No 1, especially before its arrival, because I enjoy hearing everyone else's thoughts about them more than my own, and so I'll leave it at that. But from there my day went vintage.

    I'm preparing to see my father for the first time in 6 years, despite his old age he's coming to visit, to meet my wife and daughters for the first time in person. Needless to say I wanted to present him with a very special gift upon his arrival.

    Out came my treasured Oud Royale 1985, the only one I have that has been sitting unopened for two years, still with the oily thumb print from Ensar on the handwritten label as he handed it to me smiling. Today I uncapped the lid, and took a deep inhale, I want it to be very special for my father so I did the unthinkable and uncorked the plastic applicator to replace it with one of the luxurious crystal applicators which Ensar is now using, along with the new velvet box, and this is when the predicament occurred... well, not a predicament, a blessing... what to do with the bit on the applicator? Swipe it of course!!!

    From experience I knew that I need to wait a moment for the buildup of the years to release and for the profile to reveal itself, but having become fond of the potent opening I brought my hand up and wafted it about a foots distance to enjoy the opening vapors of the galactic Sumatran elixir. Beneath its depth lies a royal red velvet with edges of sparkling cherry-tamarind deep within the resinous body of the scent. I couldn't help but relate it to Sultani 1990 which holds the same depth and vintage tone, albeit with a slightly drier less resinous turps opening.

    Later today while running errands with my sister I found myself escaping the traffic, the smog and the noise through the sweet, sultry, Sumatran scent. Nearing home I even missed a stop; my sister looked over and laughed as she saw the oud lover's notorious choreography of wrist to nose, and my complete immersion in its profile... Having to share I lent her my arm, and her sigh of satisfaction said enough, as did the smile and the "wow, where's that from" comment that followed....

    Having sipped the scent a few more times before my arrival home, I noted it had lasted through several hand washes, it's 11 hours later and still pleasantly palpable where swiped!

    An Olde but goody I know my father will love and appreciate it as much as me, if not more!

    Thanks all, please pardon me if I've posted this in the wrong place =)
     
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  4. Philip

    Philip Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for sharing, Adam. I caught all the feels from your post and I pray your meeting with your father and family was all that you had hoped for.
    I wholeheartedly relate and I love how much you love and revere OR85. After 14 long months of arduous and determined searching, I finally was able to land a bottle recently. As far as I'm concerned, OR85 is my #1 favorite of all time. Followed, of course, by OS90 and TW95. So yeah, I double and triple like your post.
     
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  5. Thomas S.

    Thomas S. Active Member

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    Oud Extraordinaire
    A young, playful oil. The initial hit has tons of sweet notes - as if you inhale deeply over a bag of roasted sugar-coated almonds. There is a note of beeswax that I particularly like. Floral notes, like cherry blossom, also swirl around in the sweet scent. In the beginning the oil reminded me of Dom Kwan since I get similar wild flowers and honey notes.
    After a few minutes there´s a switch to more resinous notes. About twefifteen to twenty minutes in a slightly woody suede leather note sweeps into the sweet floral notes…. from here on, the oil becomes gradually more resinous, incense-y, deeper. I get a fresh pine resin note that seems to boost and deepen the sweeter notes.

    Sillage and projection are quite good...a tiny drop on my wrist and I can smell the scent even when my arm is not lifted to my nose. This oil is thick so a tiny amount will perfume you for quite some time.

    Now lets get to the elephant in the room: Ishaq. Oud Extraordinaire was compared to Oud Ishaq. Well, Oud Ishaq was distilled from 40-year old organic wood, so it´s easy to jump to that assocation.
    But Oud Ishaq was distilled in 2008 and when it was released it was already aged some years. A young fresh-from-the-still oil such as Oud Extrardinaire cannot be the same. It lacks the advantage of aging for several years. Well, I dug out my Ishaq bottle and did a side-by-side comparison. There some notes - notes that are not as prominent as in Ishaq - that I also find in OE. There is a resinous pine-sap-and-a-hint-of-cannabis note that I find in both oils, as well as some honey and flower notes.
    And both are sticky like no other oil (with possibly Dom Kwan coming close, too).
    Other than that, Ishaq and Oud Extraordinaire do not have that much in common... or maybe we need to wait a few years to see how OE develops.
     

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  6. Tuff

    Tuff Active Member

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    Santal Sultan Privee

    Originally I was going to save up for one expensive oud oil, but opted for a Tola of this instead. Within the last few years, my skin becomes itchy and leathery in the spot I apply my oud or attars. I don't break out in hives, but there is a mild irritant on the skin present for 48 hours after wearing. Sadly, one of my favorites, sultan leather attar, gives me a bit of asthma, which really bums me out since it was one of my best projecting oils. For any of you with skin allergies, you should know that sandalwood causes -zero- reactions on my skin. Your mileage may vary, but I'm willing to bet money that 99.9% of people will not develop an allergic reaction to sandalwood. I would have to confirm the rumors of the antiseptic properties of sandalwood, since I experience them firsthand. So now I alternate either an oud or attar, then sandalwood for a few days, then repeat. In the past I would wear a combo of Santal Sultan and Santal Royale, or Laosan 1999 with Mysore 1984. I always felt that one of the Santal's was lacking something and would try to pair it with something to correct it. The Sultan needed the royale for musky notes and longevity, the Laosan needed the mysore 1984 for the same reason. Wearing four swipes at once tends to deplete the collection faster, but made the scent more palatable to me. I debated just mixing all my bottles into one giant pyrex and cutting the swipes in half, but I always thought there is a chance I would screw it all up and turn it into one very large Monet water lily painting, and regret it later. Enter Santal Sultan Privee.

    This isn't really a repeat of Santal Sultan at all, although the opening of it is very much identical. You will still get a huge bass note explosion at the 15 minute mark that is the hallmark of Santal Sultan, but it is tempered by the freshness of the mysore. The original santal sultan would only last four or so hours, it was a total tease, but a heavenly one. Anyone who smelled my santal bottles always remarked 'oh my' when they smelled the sultan. Very different profile than normal, taiko drums front and center, no sexy notes, just smacks you like a russian slapping contest, over and over until you admit defeat. You still get that for the first two hours, but now the smell dissolves into a very pleasing ancient mysore note. It's not totally musky like royale (although the mysore in privee is probably the same exact wood as royale), and it's not a haarp emitter on the wrist just making a 4 hz note in perpetuity like mysore 1984. It's a new cyborg hybrid courtesy of distilling everything together. The smell doesn't come in waves, like when I wear my separate swipes, but as Dmitry Bortnikoff would say, 'It is LIKE ROCK!' It is one smell with many facets. You could probably recreate this smell by combining the original sultan with some 1984 and some royale, but it would still never be 'like rock', from distilling it all together. The mysore in privee is so high quality it actually has a perfume note to it, similar to ambergris, the muskyness in it doesn't come out to play till after 4 hours or so, it feels slightly different than the royale wood. Projection is almost as strong as 1984, but the scent is much more nuanced. I would say the blend is 1/4 Santal Sultan wood and 3/4 mysore wood. Are the woods better than the originals? ....Maybe, I suspect the mysore might be a tad better than the royale wood used, although even if not, you'll never find the sultan profile again, and certainly not co-distilled with an old mysore to make it last 8-10 hours instead of 4-5. Maybe Ensar can enlighten us if the woods are better than the originals distilled. I'm not sure if there is a better Santal out there anywhere than this, unless Ensar is hiding some holy grail in a vault. How does it feel to wear this? Kinda like this (dedicated to Chappie):

     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
  7. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    a terrific write up and i find in full agreement with you. the heft and longevity of the privee is beyond any other sandal oil. the balance of alpha and beta santanol is a thing of beauty here.
     
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  8. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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    Oud Ertugrul
    A purple Borneo?

    A friend of mine from London WhatsApped me as I head towards bed last-night with an emergency....

    "Is it really similar to Purple Kinam?" He said, "...Purple... In your opinion?"

    As a die-hard lover of Borneos with a heart for Iris he just had to know...

    Admittedly I had only taken a small whiff in passing from the applicator because EO No 1 2019 was taking all of my attention (all morning with close observation) and I hadn't picked up a distinctly purple chord... I got a Borneo liqour so deep it 'tinged' purple, but the Kinam note evaded me...

    "I'll revisit tomorrow, " I told him as by that time my olfactory senses had long since tapped out, and my mind was half asleep.


    Tomorrow became today, and first thing this morning I went to the atelier for another glimpse at this thread of purple kinam questioned about.

    A single drop on the tester strip, and one on my hand, and instantly: *BOOM*


    This Borneo's gone extraterrestrial!
    Oud Ertugrul association.jpg

    With most Borneos out there you can take your pick of profiles: damp earth or dry mud, the choice is yours...

    Up the quality several tiers and you get Borneo 3000 with its Hainanese Kyara Skin nuances and silky smooth texture but never once had I smelled a Purple hued Borneo. Check out Borneo 3000 Legend or myth, and you'll see in the graph there hasn't even been a profile close to it!

    The best part is that it's not just purple, it's straight up KINAM.

    To those who missed out on PK here's your chance to REJOICE cause you're getting a glimpse of it right here.

    Adiós New-Guinea Sultans and Merhaba Oud Ertugrul!
    With this aesthetic (and price point) I'm hoping that Oud Ertugrul is the father of a new generation of Sultans?!?!? Or perhaps we've just retraced the Sultan Lineage back to its beginning... Either way, Oud Ertugrul takes my love of Borneo to galactic new heights.

    It's one of those benchmark distillations that's a must have for any collector, and a must-wear for any lover of Borneo!

    Note: the application was at 9:20 this morning, and as I write this at 2:35 pm it's still going strong, perceptible from a distance, even with just a single drop applied to the back of my hand.

    It'll last on the scent strip for a few more days, and I'll be enjoying it all the while!




     
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  9. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    ok. time to get back to the oils and playing a bit of a catch up here. i was more or less off oils and focused on wood and incense in the past few months or so. oils are calling, and i am here to answer the call...

    below are based on 1-2 wears only further studies are required.
    ensar oud chiem po qi:
    an ethereal and finsssed cambodi. as a whole category cambodi oils are not my to go oils and at times i have been challenged by them and dslike their twang and sharp terpy notes. here on the other hand, you have a lovely crassna. hints of chinese and even vietnamese origin. nice abstract floral and zesty notes. hints of that chinese neroli/orange peel note. with time more bitter notes (vietnam like) and more green notes (also more vietnam like) emerge. then it becomes clear that is not just any green but green oolong like tie guan yin. this oil reminds me of one other oil somewhat: agar aura's kanzen which happens to be my fave modern day cambodi oil to date. the best cambodi to date is kambodi 76 from ensar.
    in sum: very wearable. elegant beyond words. while outward and very good projection, the quality of the scent is rounded and refined. no sharp edges or spiky notes here. a winner.i love it.

    ensar oud aroke roshi:
    the opening note of petrichor, dry soil and some dust. this is not a muddy, wet maroke. the opening note is not for me, but subjectively speaking. its a me thing...
    development is nice: notes of jaya96 wood with a slightly sweet, soft black cumin note mixed with dark wood and mysterious notes.
    drydown: ghost of XLL the mightiest of maroke oils pokes it head out with distinct violet and dark narcotic purple floral notes. no sweet lilac or iris here. we are in violet country and those purple flowers from avatar...
    in sum: if you read what you like this is what you gonna get. i love the dry down, and actually really like the mid-development stages. opening note is not fo me.

    ensar oud sri serene:
    wow. what a knock out the opening of distinct mimosa and jasmine florals. the single most important quality in this oil is how soft-spoken, well manred and delicate (not light) the quality of the fumes are. there is that buzz here but in a softer package. wallas are almost always sharp, angular and penetrating with force. razor edge and sobering! not this. not here. lovely lovely stuff. feminine, pretty and may just be the most western friendly oil to date?
    dry down has a similar woody note to Sin x: not quite cedar plank hut on the beach but like a wood workshop. despite swimming in a collection of walla oils and frankly not loving many of them, i am actualy thinking about a full bottle purchase of this one. fantastic oil. could be the official state scent of hawaii.

    ensar oud ertugrul:
    no doubt about the higher tier source material and vastly superior distillation. at the moment i find myself out of love for borneo in general and malinau in particular. those who read me and know me, know that i have for the longest time held a very very very special place for malinau and own and cherish many top tier oils from there. i guess i over did it and now i have an aversion to them. maybe is the change of seasons or who knows what. i just hope that i fall back in love with them by the time winter is over and spring is here.
    i was expecting a less obvious borneo profile and more of that static nose tingling buzz (is there but i thought it would be more). i also thought i will see a resemblance however small, to purple kinam. i dont. i will have to study this oil further but not quite now or soon. ill wait a while as right now my mind zeros in on the vanillic, raspberry, cinnamon dusted sugary confected creamsicle profile.
    adam is bang on with the b3k refference. no doubt a higher grae oil here, but sadly for me, too close to the malinau profile (30-40% resemblancee?). will have to retry asa blind oil down the road and see how it speaks to me then.

    ensar oud american oud:
    contender for qualty price ratio oud of the year. i cant believe how fantastic this oil really is. i keep trying to find something about it i dont love as to not buy a full bottle, yet i cant find any flaws. the harmony of the compistion is bang on. so intgrated and perect that is impossible to beleive it is a post distill blend of various origins. mighty complex (vertically and horizantally speaking). plenty of ooomph and power. this is a sultan oil in every way except price. run and buy. dont even walk. this here is a rare breed and soemthing you dotn want to be left without. both the spray and oil version are solid. serious value in oil form. great 3d projection in spray form. more progression steps in oils form, more comign at you from all directions in spray form. count me in as super impressed, despite initial pesimism before even ever trying it. eating a humble pie...

    profile wise i get awesome walla, sumatra, even a green png phase as well as some suggestions of crassna (cambodi/thai). but is almsot like a new specieis or region discovery. try for yourself. i am lost for words. love this oil.

    agar aura hulubalang:
    contender for quality price ratio oud of the year? certainly along with chiem po qi and even more so American oud. a terrific gooey, resinous, deliciously purple and cola rich malay oil. punches way above its weight and very much an awesome buy. an oil with plenty of mind buzz too. run before is all out.

    agar aura royal jerai:
    unique oil. totally new profile for me. muddled wild strawberry cake note. dense, rich. good gentle type of sour. plenty of mind buzz. unlike many of agar aura oils, there is a oudy oud marrow dry down here. the scent of those awesome resins and wood clinging to your sinuses when heated on medium + temp. beautiful stuff

    agar aura mardelong:
    not for me. it is the least sweet and most bitter/naunced thai oil i ahve tried but still for me and my taste, i cant shake off the dried prunes and apricot notes. it is a quality oil. no doubt. if you like yusuf you will love this. just not for me.

    agar aura kirana:
    another malay oil but one that is more vietnam with its bitterweet, kinamic, yellow note. somehow i am indifferent towards this oil though. there is nothing here i dont' like or even remotely dislike, yet i dont exactly get excited by it either. not sure why. i have kept a bit to try down the road...
     
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  10. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    Ps wearing American oud again before bed and I am getting a blast of that clean dark tea and hint of leather Hindi profile. I previously saw it as more of a laos profile as I have come to know it, but no, it is a more Hindi profile which is fitting considering the Manipur component. It doesn’t toast long st all though. This facet quickly hides and plays coy. Mostly hiding. A little tease and back in the dark shadows again... love this oil. Playful. Engaging charming.
     
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  11. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    American oud again right now. Loving this oil. Again the words that came to mind thru out the progression was what a seamless balance. Some days like today the manipur opening is somewhat sticking out but other days it can’t even be easily scene. It is always there doing its thing but interesting game of hide and seek. Great oil. I love it.

    Ertugrul is indeed more than I experienced the first go. It is till bit too much Malinau for me (remember I am in a period of fallen out of love with malinau. Can’t see it lasting too long though as I already was able to very much enjoy this oil).

    there is indeed a purple vibe. Is certainly not the yellow (b50k) orange (royal malinau, white kinam) or red (borneo 3k, borneo Diesel). There is plenty of mind buzz showing here originating from those incense grade (or some higher grades even?). I don’t really get PK but there is a kinamic vibe in the way this oil vibrates. An element of super sonic is in this fat Full big oil.

    chiem po is still enjoyed but has gone a tier lower in my eyes since first go around. Originally I really enjoyed it over kampong seila. But not now that I have spent more time with it. What caused this mi or slip is that twangy cambodi note that pokes it head out mid development stages. Mind you it is certainly lower in volume compared to most cambodi but still for a cambodi sensetive nose, it is noticeable.
     
  12. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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  13. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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    Hey all, so just had I experience which reminded me of the importance of what @Oudamberlove spoke of previously in the 'knowledge for Oud Novice' thread, that an oud journey must have highs and lows, and that if walking along the 'good oud path' one's journey isn't complete.

    This reigns true for much of life, as the times of turmoil and difficulty can be used to enhance and appreciate the times of calm and ease. And so too can generic 'ouds' be used to enhance the experience of genuine artisanal oud oils.

    I appreciate the gesture of the samples as the exposure adds to my experience, which follows: initially after a single whiff from the bottles I dismissed them as synthetic or some kind of isolate and normally I wouldn't even put them on my skin.

    But for the sake of experience I decided to try each of them and with a couple, fleeting notes of oud were actually present, however they are solitary notes and far from the depth and complexity of genuine artisanal oud oil.

    The 'sandalwood' smells nothing like sandalwood but instead like a tropical ointment, with a coconut sunscreen profile. I've experienced that before with 'sandalwood' and believe it's their attempt to capture the buttery creaminess of actual sandalwood.

    'Mumtaz oud,' attempts to capture the peppercorn liquor peatiness of fermented Cambodian oud, but instead comes across like pure cresol, reminiscent of bandaids.

    The 'Cambodian Oud' exhibits some similarity to Pursat oud, known for its sweet fruity profile but in a heavily oxidized form with only traces of the profile remaining with cloying attributes that linger.

    The 'White Oud' may well be the 'sandalwood' mixed with whatever cresol is in the 'Mumtaz oud' or perhaps the 'Indian Oud' which actually exudes a note more prominent in Thai ouds, and fleetingly within Indonesian profiles, rather than what Indian Ouds actually possess of terracotta earthiness, ground spices and woods, and indolic characteristics.

    Unfortunately for me, my experience of synthetics and isolates goes beyond preference, I have a physical reaction, become nauseated and get a piercing headache which has ensued after my experience with the samples.

    There's a degree of satisfaction that comes with authentic natural aromatics along with their intrinsic therapeutic attributes that add to their value and make the experience complete.

    That satisfaction for me is absent in designer fragrances, synthetics and isolates which come across as shallow, or rather hollow.

    My next scent, local Nabulsi organic sweet almond hand soap =)
     

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  14. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    Excellent write up. Ty for sharing
     
  15. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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  16. Simla House

    Simla House Well-Known Member

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    I'm amazed that this oil is still even available.
    Was one of the first full bottles I purchased along with Green Papua.
    It's a must have.
     
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  17. Rasoul S

    Rasoul S Well-Known Member

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    To date the sole oil I have bought again and Again. First a 0.3 sample. Then 0.7. Then 2.5.
    To make it even more otherworldly I put a dot of oud ahmad or kannan koh or kinam emerald and then a swipe of twr over it. The combo does wonders. Single greatest one two punch. An oooooold musk, mahogany antique and grandpa’s breath after smoking a pipe and having strong black tea with dates. I don’t find it anywhere as camphoric as tw95. In fact a slew of other notes come ahead of camphor in twr for me.
    A true legend much like green papua, hainan 05, zacharya....
     
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  18. ~A Coburn

    ~A Coburn Well-Known Member

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    63
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Service
    Location:
    Amman, Jordan

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