Why Can’t Oud Be Synthesized?

Larry K.

Active Member
#1
Look, I understand that perfume houses want to create new molecules they can patent, so we get 1,2,3-alpha gamma lama methyl bethyl triethyl oudl caboodle acid that does not smell even remotely like Oud. (Note: Liberties have been taken with chemical description). But the chemical constituents of Oud are known. So why not take a barrel of alpha agarofuran and a keg of 3-phenyl, 2-butanone, throw in a cup of alpha-cubenene, and a pinch or two of whatever favorite sesquiterpenes you have in the back of your fridge from the last time, mix on ‘frappe’ until the soft-peak stage, bake uncovered at 325 degrees for 45 minutes and allow to cool completely before bottling? I mean really, what’s with all this slogging through muddy jungles? Why doesn’t anyone just buy the known ingredients, mix them in their proper proportions and see how they smell? Hmmm?
 
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Larry K.

Active Member
#3
"They" did this and all the "oud" perfumes are now available for our pleasure! Which ones do you like? :D
I’ve never smelled a synthetic oud that reminded me of Oud. Or a synthetic musk that reminded me of musk. (I hope if you’re a fan of those things that I haven’t offended you-never my intent. And I make no claims about my nose being good. There are many artificial musks I can’t smell at all.) Civet, on the other hand, I can’t tell if it’s real or fake.

But I think you’re sayin the same thing.
 
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#4
I agree, the synthetic alternatives fall far short. I think a lot of effort has been put into it though, as using synthetic oud also means the price can be tripled. These fake oud fragrances also seem to be combined with the most offensive and powerful synthetic bases available. As a genre, "western oud" fragrances are the worst. Possibly worse than Angel and A Men... :)

I think musk has gotten better, some fragrances get really close. I actually learned how to smell musks over time... other people have reported training themselves to smell things they're anosmic to, it is possible! I don't use fragrances with synthetic ingredients often but there are a few I like and use occasionally.
 

~A Coburn

Well-Known Member
#5
What I find amusing and amazing, is when you look at the ingredients of a designer 'oud' how many different notes they have! I'm sure they're not all the same, but I've counted one with like 30.
It goes to show just how complex oud profiles are, but then it also raises the question of just where anyone got the idea that 'oud' describes a scent note.
I can't help but grin when I hear someone say 'it smells like oud.' Oud is an entire spectrum, not a hue.

As for the synthetics out there, I can always tell when they're mixed in by the headache that ensues shortly after application :confused:
 

Nikhil S

Well-Known Member
#6
What I find amusing and amazing, is when you look at the ingredients of a designer 'oud' how many different notes they have! I'm sure they're not all the same, but I've counted one with like 30.
It goes to show just how complex oud profiles are, but then it also raises the question of just where anyone got the idea that 'oud' describes a scent note.
I can't help but grin when I hear someone say 'it smells like oud.' Oud is an entire spectrum, not a hue.

As for the synthetics out there, I can always tell when they're mixed in by the headache that ensues shortly after application :confused:
The only thing remotely close to Oud is an actual vetiver fragrance. It reminds of some type of Thai Oils drydown.
 

Nikhil S

Well-Known Member
#8
Yes you’re right Nikhil! There’s a dirty rough catchy part of ruh khus that is reminiscent of some ouds.
True sir...very true. There is this extraordinary Vetiver fragrance from Darkwood Forest Apothecary, USA who ALSO makes pure Oud perfumes which is based on only 3 notes alongwith Ylang Ylang and Cardamom. I wear it during summers. It is so reminiscent of the beautiful sweetness of some Ouds. If your get a chance please do not miss it.
 

Larry K.

Active Member
#9
True sir...very true. There is this extraordinary Vetiver fragrance from Darkwood Forest Apothecary, USA who ALSO makes pure Oud perfumes which is based on only 3 notes alongwith Ylang Ylang and Cardamom. I wear it during summers. It is so reminiscent of the beautiful sweetness of some Ouds. If your get a chance please do not miss it.
Unfortunately there is no longer an internet presence for Darkwood Forest Apothecary. A shame when a talented amateur gives things a try but must for some reason give up the dream. If you have his contact information, and don’t feel uncomfortable sharing it, I would contact him directly to see if he still produces Vetiver or any other of his creations
 

Nikhil S

Well-Known Member
#10
Unfortunately there is no longer an internet presence for Darkwood Forest Apothecary. A shame when a talented amateur gives things a try but must for some reason give up the dream. If you have his contact information, and don’t feel uncomfortable sharing it, I would contact him directly to see if he still produces Vetiver or any other of his creations
Matthew is available as a_man_of_the_woods on Instagram sir. He is busy discovering new scents in nature. He will make a comeback. He is a gem. Problem is people need labels and media nursing. He is a powerhouse tbh. Very genuine person.
 

5MeO

Well-Known Member
#11
Look, I understand that perfume houses want to create new molecules they can patent, so we get 1,2,3-alpha gamma lama methyl bethyl triethyl oudl caboodle acid that does not smell even remotely like Oud. (Note: Liberties have been taken with chemical description). But the chemical constituents of Oud are known. So why not take a barrel of alpha agarofuran and a keg of 3-phenyl, 2-butanone, throw in a cup of alpha-cubenene, and a pinch or two of whatever favorite sesquiterpenes you have in the back of your fridge from the last time, mix on ‘frappe’ until the soft-peak stage, bake uncovered at 325 degrees for 45 minutes and allow to cool completely before bottling? I mean really, what’s with all this slogging through muddy jungles? Why doesn’t anyone just buy the known ingredients, mix them in their proper proportions and see how they smell? Hmmm?
Good question! I wonder if all the scent compounds can indeed be synthesized as of yet.. There are things in nature for which the synthesis pathways have yet to be figured out - it requires reverse engineering, basically, to figure out how nature synthesized a particualr chemical.

There is mysterious plant known as Salvia divinorum - Mexican shamans and urban explorers of consciousness consume it to produce a visionary and sometimes teleportational state of conscioousness. For many years no one could figure out how to synthesize the active ingredient, a chemical called "salvinorin-A", because it was so unusual in chemical structure, not abiding any genre of chemicals that researchers were used to.. Anyhow, just last year someone discovered a synthesis pathway for it.. So, maybe some of the chemicals in oud are like this?