about new releases

Kruger · May 8, 2012

I think basically what happens now is what happens with everything limited in supply: we adjust to what’s available. And what’s available is cultivated oils, which if produced artisanally the Ensar Oud way, such as the Khao Yai Experiment, can even outstrip the wildest ouds. There's no question (so far as Ensar and I are concerned) that Khao Yai gives wild oud a run both for its money and its life.

However, if you’re still not convinced and, like some, insist that just because it’s wild it’s better than if it’s cultivated, then the handful of Kyara de Kalbars as well of what remains of Borneo 3000, Kyara Ko-Twe, and Kalbar 3000 should be enough to keep you fragrant before we too go extinct

PS: We regret to inform everyone that there will not be an Oud Royale No 3.

Connor · May 8, 2012

I'm just getting started on my explorations of oud, but I pledged to never use any wild oils. I am sure that they are great in many respects, but I would rather look forward toward the future of oud, rather than embrace a quickly vanishing past. Speaking of cultivated oud, has anyone tried the Encens d'Angkor? I have just purchased a bottle from Ensar.

floraopia · May 8, 2012

The best has to be Oud Royale No. 1 - it is 'liquid gold' as someone recently described it in an e-mail to me, followed closely by Kyara LTD/ Kyara Koutan.

masstika · May 9, 2012

@Thomas: Wouldn't this new situation of only Cultivated and no wild harvested necessitate a new Business model? Where as before you could buy the Oud chips from your contact in touch with the hunters and gatherers of the Agarwood in the forest, now you would have to buy it from the farmers themselves or a middle person but then how can that contact or farmer guarantees you that those chips where grown organically over a long period of time (7 to 15 years)? Would you have to put up front a certain collateral to guarantee you a share at harvest time? Can you share with us some ideas about how this is going to work from here forward?

floraopia · May 9, 2012

That is a good question Masstika... baring a chemical analysis report, you would have to take the farmer's word for it and judge his truthfulness on the way he goes about his business. So if I look at the Oud Yusuf farmer and distiller, I would speculate that his OCD is probably advanced enough to accept his word. Of course, you still cannot know for certain.

Kruger · May 11, 2012

Masstika, at the time we were doing wild-harvested oils, ‘wild’ was not something out of the ordinary, not something that people wanted to claim as a label. It was simply the norm. This means that people were not out to trick you into thinking it was something other than it, other than wild.

When it comes to organically grown trees, however, you do have a label to live up to, and something to gain/lose if you don’t. Yes, people have to get the wood directly from the farmers or their representatives and there’s no guarantee to what these people might tell you. In fact, the claims usually turn out other than what we were told at first. So, the only way to really know if trees were grown organically for extended periods is to be there in person and inspect the trees yourself. This is been our approach so far (take Crassna Cha, for example), and how we plan to continue going about future distillations. We don’t deal with middlemen and we don’t just take the word of the farmers.

floraopia · May 11, 2012

Thomas... I am a bit confused here. How could you tell that the Crassna-cha trees were grown organically for 20 years? Are there some tell-tale signs that prove that fact beyond any doubt that the tree has not been chemically 'messed with' in that 20 year period?

Thomas said:

Masstika, at the time we were doing wild-harvested oils, ‘wild’ was not something out of the ordinary, not something that people wanted to claim as a label. It was simply the norm. This means that people were not out to trick you into thinking it was something other than it, other than wild.

When it comes to organically grown trees, however, you do have a label to live up to, and something to gain/lose if you don’t. Yes, people have to get the wood directly from the farmers or their representatives and there’s no guarantee to what these people might tell you. In fact, the claims usually turn out other than what we were told at first. So, the only way to really know if trees were grown organically for extended periods is to be there in person and inspect the trees yourself. This is been our approach so far (take Crassna Cha, for example), and how we plan to continue going about future distillations. We don’t deal with middlemen and we don’t just take the word of the farmers.

masstika · May 15, 2012

@floraopia: I would imagine you would have to run a test on the oil sample patch at distillation time and additionally from what I have seen w/ chemical inoculation the tree looks different from the size and type of holes drilled so I would imagine that might be a sure sign of chemical inoculation.

Edward T · May 17, 2012

Both of the new oils Kyara Ko-Twe and Kalbar 3000 are really nice oils. I thought all the reviews about the Kalbar 3000 were the typical new oil hype, but that is one impressive oil. The Kyara Ko-Twe is a different sweetness than the Kalbar 3000 and last longer on me though and in my opinion superior to the Kalbar 3000. That is my opinion for the night and it is not that important because it most likely will change. You ladies and gentlemen be good and hang in there!

masstika · May 17, 2012

Seeing now that Agaraura has (2) new Indian Oils and a Mukhalate. The Sultan Al Hind sounds real promising as it hails from the same region as Oud Nuh (Which I hold in high esteem), so I am looking to try it out. I have sent out some questions regarding the nature of the wood (Plantation vs. Wild) and (Hydro distillation vs. steam...etc.). I am surprised that there is no samples for the Hindi Sauvage. Maybe the yield was not that much but it sounds like a real Funk Oud (I think I am going to wait on others to tell me their opinion before jumping in) and finally there is a Mukhalat, Aquatica that sounds like a Heir to the now gone Tropica (which I sorrily missed), so this time I am making sure to sample this one for I live in a region that fits those description, long, warm and humid summer days and sultry evenings.

Oudiferous · May 20, 2012

Masstika, Taha had a bunch of pre-release sales of Sauvage, so that's why there are no samples. I'm curious to try both oils too, especially Sauvage.

Has anyone tried the new Oud Isa?

abdullah · May 20, 2012

I am finding that Oud Isa will end very fast.
As Oud Idrees.

abdullah · May 25, 2012

Has anyone tried the new Oud Isa?

masstika · May 31, 2012

A quick notes on my first impressions from Agaraura Sultan Al Hind; The first thought that came to mind as I brought the stick closer to my nose is one of smoothness and a bit of smokiness usually associated with Mubakhar (scented) oils. The Fecal/barnyard notes are also subdued and hushed. The notes are neither strident nor brilliant but rather yammy fruity. The fruitiness I am talking about is akin to the smell of dried apricot and beaches. Actually the fruitiness is what i find IMHO to be it's main character and it takes a bit of getting used to have a fruity Hindi smell. I see that the notes are a bit separated from each other (The fruit vs. the leather/barnyard). That space in between is not well defined yet. The silage is short range and does not project far. In terms of longevity,I had it on now for about 3.5 hours and I can't say that it had mellowed down because it seems that it was always mellow from the get go. I am no expert like some here and I can't foresee the future but my guess is that Sultan Al Hind will do quite well as those notes merge together and begins to have a fuller body. It is a strong recommendation for those that like fruity Indian Ouds or for someone that want something slightly different than the usual Hindi profile. What others think that have tried it already?

Oudiferous · May 31, 2012

Masstika, I have tried Sultan al-Hind, and it is a nice oil that displays that classic Meghalayan profile. Smooth, creamy, woody in the dry-down, and sweet. The fecal/barnyard notes are, as you say, subdued. However, there is no doubt that it is an Indian oil, and for me, it does succeed in "hitting the spot". But, this oil is still very young, and I can smell some of the still notes in it. I can smell many of the notes in the oil that have yet to fully develop and come into clear being, and because the oil is so young, the notes have not tied together yet into a harmonious profile. With time, I see this oil becoming deeper, more harmonious, and fruitier!

Thomas S. · May 31, 2012

Abdullah and Oudiferous: Thanks for sharing your views. Your comments have definitely made me quite curious to order it myself.

masstika · Jun 2, 2012

Aquatica, The new Mukhalat by Agaraura. A slightly overtly Citrus-y and Vanilic notes greet you with a sweetness of like Frangipani flowers and ending with brilliancy of Frankincense. Difficult next to impossible for me to discern any Oud notes in the opening notes, very well concealed. I have never been to Indonesia so it is difficult for me to see except from pictures and Food how this is an homage to the Land of Thousand archipelago. It could be the Zest in this Mukhalat. It is like having ginger in soup or Lemongrass. I was thinking that must be the Ambergris that is making this blend have this brilliancy to it. It's a bit like sun shine, not high noon sun but early morning one when it is piercing and clear. The notes I find actually more appropriate to a Japanese genera of perfumes because once this Citrus-y note settles down it becomes more Floral and soft. It dose not project very far and it is not "Middle Eastern" by any Standard. It takes a good 2 hours or a bit more for the Oud to come through. It is a deep woody smell, no fecal or barnyard here. The early beach scenes of the opening notes are replaced with dry wood/hay smell. That is a nice turn of events. My only wish would have been if it was revealed and emphasized a bit early on, which I assume could have been done with the addition of Oud dosage but that probably would have effected the prize adversely. It is nice to see how there is a common thread that traverses the different releases from the same person. It's almost like reading their train of thought and after a while you begin to see the signature in the various iterations. I have not tried Tropicana but I have other Agaraura Mukhalates that I can see of similar dispositions. Exception to my early assumptions mentioned above about expecting certain style oils distillations from certain people is Hindi Sauvage again by Agaraura. It is the most animalic I have smelled from Taha or from others. It can compete with oudimentary Super Assam in term of headiness. It is quite stinky literally that I thought it might have Musk in it

It's funny and amazing at the same time that it has dark berries and peppery notes all at once. This Oud would work well with traditional Mukhalates and will probably serve well as a base for higher floral notes for example. It's young and brash but not strong or wise, so I can see that it will do well with some aging as that Sauvage becomes civilized without losing that berry sweetness of youth. Personally and this just my personal opinion that it's abit over the top for me in it's current state but I am sure there are others where this will fit in nicely with their need for funkiness.

Thomas S. · Jun 5, 2012

Connor,

welcome to the Gaharu Forum. I have also only recently (about seven months ago) started to buy oud oils.
A few words from my experience so far: You will wnat to find out which kind of oil interests you. Buy a Cambodi, a Hindi and a Papua oil, and compare their scent profiles. You will soon discover that you like one certain type more than the other, or that you prefer this oil today, the other one tomorrow.

The Encens d´Angkor was also one of the first oils I bought. I like the sweet incense-y and fruity notes. Also, Encens displays some "barnyard" notes in the drydown. It is a good starting point for beginners to discover what notes an oil can display as it develops over time on your skin.
It also has a good sillage, meaning others around you will catch the scent too. One of my neighbors once commented: "You have an incense smell about you -- it´s delicious! What is it?"

Connor said:

laph · Jun 6, 2012

Some thoughts from my recent testings:

I'm just testing Sultan al-Hind myself and very much enjoying the smooth, leathery and honeyed aroma. It's also fruity (think stewed fruits). I generally love leather fragrances so this really hits the mark for me.

Sauvage has lovely deep woody and spicy (ground black pepper) notes that I very much enjoy and there’s enough sweetness to keep a nice balance. I very much enjoy it and find it strongly but not hugely fecal. Are there more extreme Hindi ouds than this? Suggestions welcome.

I will post further thoughts on these and Taha's other oils as I get through at least a wear or two to get to know them. So far I'm very much enjoying his offerings.

I am considering some of Ensar's oils too.
What are your current thoughts on Oud Yusha, Encens d'Angkor, Oud Yusuf and Crassna Cha?

Also, are there any other oils (other than Ensar's and Taha's) that are currently available that you'd recommend?

(Sorry to the guys on both forums - you'll see my post on each but I'm trying to cover the bases and accelerate out of my oud newbiness

)

Thomas S. · Jun 6, 2012

Hello laph, also a Welcome to this expert Forum!
You wrote:
"I will post further thoughts on these and Taha's other oils as I get through at least a wear or two to get to know them. So far I'm very much enjoying his offerings."

I have only recently bought some oils from Taha, but judging from what I have, they are very beautiful oils. For example; I have Taha´s Oud Kampuchea. It is very nice oils, the Kampuchea is quite similar to Oud Yusuf from Ensar, but softer, and it does not project itself as strong as the Yusuf. It also has some notes which i don´t find in Yusuf. Yusuf was produced organic, while the wood for Kampuchea is from wild harvest.

Also: "I am considering some of Ensar's oils too. What are your current thoughts on Oud Yusha, Encens d'Angkor, Oud Yusuf and Crassna Cha?"

There is a brilliant review of Crassna Cha, by Oudiferous, here: www.oudimpressions.com.
I can subscribe to each and every word in his review. Crassna Cha is very green, spicy, and has a wonderful dry-down. I like the Crassna Cha a lot, however, it is an oil you will want to wear every day as it suits better to hot weather than rainy days (IMHO, that is!).

Yusuf, Encens d´Angkor and Yusha are all nice, fruity and they are all organic oils. Yusuf is probably the "softest", sweetest among them. But Yusuf projects quite well (has good sillage).
Yusha and Angkor are sisters, both were distilled from the same batch of Thai Oud (Province Trat). There were some tweaks in the distillation process, which rendered d´Angkor somewhat "darker", woodier and more incense-y; than Yusha.

If you want to get past your newbie-ness, I suggest the same as I have suggested to Connor:
Get a Hindi, a Thai/ Cambodi, and a Papua oil so you can find out which scent profile is to your liking.
Or buy from the same region but from different harvests / years of distillation.
Then compare how each oil smells, and find out what you like about an oil.
This will help you decide what kond of oil(s) you want to explore in-depth.

It is said often that Hindi oils are the peak goal, the sumit of the Oud experience. But there are great variants in Hindis, as in all Oud oils, so you will need to work your way up to this summit

Kind regards and Blessings,
Thomas S.

laph said:

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