I really enjoyed Shabby’s Sri Lankan reviews and thought I’d do one for my favorite genre of oud oil. Many say that oud adepts that favor the Thai’s, Cambodian’s, Borneo’s(the prettier stuff), even the jungly Malay’s and the highly resinous oils from New Guinea will eventually graduate to sublimely beautifully funkier genres, Hindi and Laotian. With the exception of a few such as resident Hindi head Taherg and m.arif, I don’t see many discussing this genre.
The oils I’m reviewing are currently available and my favorites from some of the trusted vendors. All of these oils share the same salient features. They are all artistically produced and collected, their consistency and crystalline clarity shows conscientious distillation, filtering, and curing. No cloudiness and no off notes; artisanal quality oud oils. In no particular order…
Sasong Sungsud(Imperial Oud, Laos 2016)~It starts off with an aromatically pungent, heavily barny, cheesy fermented top note. What’s impressive is how that top note is seamlessly intermingled with a veritable basket of fresh and dried fruits. Plums, prunes and definitely black mission figs are so interweaved with the pungent top note that it gives it an almost powdery like texture. The barn begins to subside a bit as it goes into the middle notes and the fruits brighten as notes of dark tobacco emerge. Like other IO oils I’ve tried, it projects strongly with a wafting sillage. The imagery I get from this oil is rather solemn, dignified and purple; I see a well muscled, brash, young, devoted monk who is taking a moment of quietude; sitting in the lotus position, silent and focused. This is an oil that could easily sell for twice it’s asking price.
Chamkeila(Agar Aura)~This oil starts off with one of the most crisp, pristine, clean and semi-sweet indolic notes that it's almost as if it's candied; that note is somewhat powdery as well. The barn that is there, is so intricately woven into the very fabric of the oil that it may not be apparent at first. Notes of sweet moist tobacco emerge as it goes into the middle notes, becoming deeply resinous, slightly more powdery, woody, sweetish and ever so mildly floral. The deeper drydown is heavenly and airy. With all of AA 3rd and 4th generation oils they are simple and complex. Simple in they simply smell like what I imagine the wood to smell like when gently heated. Complex in that they are nearly indescribable. The imagery I get from this oil is of purity and sunlight; I see pilgrims circumambulating, touching and kissing the Black Stone, this is the fragrance I imagine Al Kaaba Al Musharrafah to smell like.
Hudhayl(Al Shareef Oudh)~This is the spiciest oil in this miniseries, it starts with a flush of herbs and spices; black and green cardamom pods, anise and clove, a touch of fennel, along with hay and honey, all intertwined with a mild barn note that doesn’t seem totally from fermentation, something I learned to be inherent to the wood used. Old world with great horizontal complexity. As it goes into the middle notes it becomes more succinct and resinous, the hay and honey notes become more apparent and are joined with a light tobacco note. As it fades into the deeper dry down it becomes ever so slightly smoky. The imagery I get from this oil is strength and nobility; I see dark complected, bearded men in white, encamped along the ancient routes of the spice trade, under a full moon night. The black stallions are hitched, the camels are resting, a mabkhara filled with sweet Hindi aloes burns in the distance.
Oud Shuayb(Ensar Oud)~this is the most beyond modern, traditional oil, with vertical complexity. It starts with a dark, dense, nearly black, clean indolic note that I can't help but call "fecalicious". As it segues into the middle notes, dark red, vaporous and arcane fruit notes reminiscent of those found in Vietnamese oils begins to emerge as the indolic note has nearly completely faded. As it enters the deeper drydown the fruitiness begins to lighten and shine, at this stage one could easily believe it to be a Thai oil, a true scent shifting oil. The imagery I get from this oil is confident and affluent; I see a middle aged man of noble lineage, speeding along E11 Sheikh Zayed Road on his way to the Dubai Marina, in a cashmere white Rolls-Royce Wraith.
I need more of this in my life. What….Is that you Dr. Hindi? Is that you Qamar, Mahabali, Hastakshar, Royal Imphal? All are calling my name.