Archipelago today. Really nice oil. So multifaceted. Checks a lot of boxes for me. Green, check. Woody, check. Vanilla, check. Earthy, check. Definitely a bargain oil.
Also have on Jing Shen Lu. This is one of the modern oils that shows what else Thais can be. Super fruity and delicious, yep, love them, but knew that already. This one, first swipe I thought I'd accidentally put one of my Sultans in JSLs spot. It's definitely got some of those notes. Then it gets a bit green with some lemongrass. Lovely. Stays a bit sweet and sour for a good bit on me.
Borneo 2000 for me today. Cant tell you how close this is in resemblance to the legendary borneo 4000. Sweet, woody, vanilla, spices. IMO, Borneo has some of the best sweet oils this earth has to offer.
@bhanny If you want betonamu, I'd say go for FO royal vietnam. If I remember correctly when I was with Adam and Taha, Taha said something like " Adam did something I wish I could've done for betonamu jinkoh". I assume it's an improvement in some aspects of distillation.
SOTD for the past few days has been a matured Mai Bo Rai (it just arrived after going on a eurotrip for 2 months ).
Much less funky notes than before, but still is around in the back stage. A kind of cola sweetness took center stage, with chocolate and cherry notes by the side. Still in the " dark trat" category as described on the FO website. A very unique trat plantation oil.
Some days I just need to wear something flat out beautiful. Queen Borneo 3000 today. Borneo perfection. Sorta like the girl every other girl is jealous of because she is flawless, almost like some mythical demigod. Only they get more pissed, cause she's real and she's also cool as hell.
Some days I just need to wear something flat out beautiful. Queen Borneo 3000 today. Borneo perfection. Sorta like the girl every other girl is jealous of because she is flawless, almost like some mythical demigod. Only they get more pissed, cause she's real and she's also cool as hell.
Simply awesome! The B3000 is the reason I got into the world of Oud. Can't thank Ensar enough for this once in a lifetime Oud. I am so glad he pursuaded me to buy it 10 years ago!
Simply awesome! The B3000 is the reason I got into the world of Oud. Can't thank Ensar enough for this once in a lifetime Oud. I am so glad he pursuaded me to buy it 10 years ago!
It is stunningly beautiful. Wish I had bought it at the price I suspect you did . I really wear it on days that I need something pure and beautiful. I'm so glad Ensar saved a bottle all these years just for me .
I often wear it with Taha's Ceylon No1 which I find has a similar effect. Beautiful from top to bottom. What a left-right combo!
Really, you prefer the Manaka to the Betonamu? Maybe I need both? . BTW, the wood looks divine, and they did for Betonamu as well. Yes, I stalk your Archives and read, just as I do Ensar's Legends.
Well, I was referring to Malaysian oud in particular.. but in any case to me Manaka and Betonamu are equals (in grade as well btw, if you check out the photos and videos of both oils' raw materials).
I do rate Adam's Royal Vietnam a notch above it, as Arif pointed out. Reason being, the raw material aroma and quality was practically identical but he implemented a couple changes I realized as being more optimal, after my own distillation was over. Alas, with these ultra-rare distillations, you just get one shot!
SOTD for me lately has been Lavanya (Nagaland) and Tan Xiang No.2 (Mysore sandalwood), as I've been tightening the former and curing the latter.
Its baffling how terribly the two get along being from the same country and all, like a match made in hell. I find Mysore sandalwood is 'meant' to go with Crassna, Filaria, and Sinesis instead.
Well, I was referring to Malaysian oud in particular.. but in any case to me Manaka and Betonamu are equals (in grade as well btw, if you check out the photos and videos of both oils' raw materials).
I do rate Adam's Royal Vietnam a notch above it, as Arif pointed out. Reason being, the raw material aroma and quality was practically identical but he implemented a couple changes I realized as being more optimal, after my own distillation was over. Alas, with these ultra-rare distillations, you just get one shot!
Thanks for clarifying, sorry I misunderstood. I will keep my eyes open for both. I am just very glad I got ahold of some Berkilau. AMAZING!
No pressure, just one shot! . I am eagerly awaiting a bottle of Royal Vietnam myself, think it just hit the states. I look forward to reviewing it myself.
SOTD for me lately has been Lavanya (Nagaland) and Tan Xiang No.2 (Mysore sandalwood), as I've been tightening the former and curing the latter.
Its baffling how terribly the two get along being from the same country and all, like a match made in hell. I find Mysore sandalwood is 'meant' to go with Crassna, Filaria, and Sinesis instead.
Thanks for clarifying, sorry I misunderstood. I will keep my eyes open for both. I am just very glad I got ahold of some Berkilau. AMAZING!
No pressure, just one shot! . I am eagerly awaiting a bottle of Royal Vietnam myself, think it just hit the states. I look forward to reviewing it myself.
Well, its all theory. Since I'm not a scientist, I don't know the exact science behind it, but what I can share with you are the actual changes I've observed (and yes, it works — but exactly why, I don't know):
When an oil has been fully cured (no more water/fumes in the oil), I like to seal it under an Argon blanket. This is quite the opposite of what most distillers do (they air + sun/lamp the oil). Especially in the case of Gen3 oils (and other distillers' low temp distillations as well, but to a lesser extent) there are a LOT of top note compounds bouncing around. Imagine a caffeinated 3 year old; she just can't sit still.
Exposing the oil to air will make the oil lose these super delicate / low density top note compounds into the air, especially if the bottle is repeatedly opened and closed. There are multiple interchanges that happen:
oil <---> air inside the bottle <---> air outside the bottle
Using Argon, those delicate notes migrate at the most into the heavy Argon blanket, and that blanket prevents these compounds from rising up into the air inside the bottle. Gently swirling the bottle every now and then helps reintroduce those compounds back into the oil.
One of the things that naturally happens with distilled oils (actually even composed perfumes) is the intermarrying of scent notes. Centrifugation, Argon-sealing, or any other form of pressurization will speed up this process. Its one of the two things that happen as oils age (the other is oxidation, but I am a vehement opponent of oxidation; I don't care what anyone says).
And so, Argon-sealing being one of these compression methods not only facilitates and expedites the 'good aging' process but it also helps lock the delicate compounds in. I think I've mentioned before that there have been Gen3 oils that went from lasting a mere 3-5 minutes on my skin when they were fresh, to being easily discernable even the next day. My guess is that the initial seemingly apparent weakness was due to my nose getting super blasted with the overly intense volatile top note compounds; the Argon tamed them and locked them in, and so after the Argon treatment was complete there's no more super blasting happening any more.
And I think I may have also shared the incident where a Pyrex (yep, name-brand super-sturdy Pyrex!) container literally exploded because it was over-filled with Argon gas. This indicates just how much compression Argon applies.
Once again, ALL of this^ is just theory.
Maybe you, Kesiro, Oud_Learner, or someone else who is scientifically inclined and well-versed could correct my reasoning if its wrong. All I know is, it works.
Lavanya... I don't want to say too much about it. The more I smell it the more unsure I am if I'll ever release it. Its darn pretty (the likes of Ceylon No.1, Borneo 3000, and Nha Trang Ltd), the sort of pretty that makes you want to laugh and cry all at once.
As I'm typing this, I'm also monitoring a shipment from India. Its currently held up at customs. If it manages to go through, then it means I can start making Syed Series Indian oils. Only in that case, I think I'd be willing to part with Lavanya.
Oh, she does have a sister, Kalyani, that one I will definitely be releasing. She ain't exactly frumpy either.
Meet the Mokokchungs.
There's the dainty Lavanya. She's got that 'girl next door' sort of beauty. She's pretty (and she knows it) but she's a shy one.
There's Kalyani. She's gorgeous too, but unlike her little sister, she's more flamboyant.
And then of course there's Mahabali. Burly, stern and clearly the patriarch, his personality is intense and firm (with sisters like his, he's gotta be). He'll remind you of a Kabaddi champion... stern brow, broad chest, and twirled fat whiskers.
I think I should clarify why Gen3 oils are the most vulnerable to losing the delicate top notes when they're fresh out of the still.
Gen3 oils are usually hydro distilled at 75-80°C/167-176°F or hydro+steam distilled at 45-50°C/113-122°F (most distillers aren't able to achieve this... but all it takes is implementing some simple physics concepts). For this reason, more of the super volatile / super charged / super caffeinated top notes are captured because they don't get combusted by high heat. But since these compounds are very delicate and diffusive (low density) they run the risk of getting lost into the air... which is why Argon sealing and/or airtight sealing are so important.
As a side note, this is also the reason why a lot of customers have had Eureka! moments where they realize that Gen3 oils capture the aroma of the oleoresin, as if it was surgically excised from the wood. Its because distilling at such a low temperature ensures other (wood, as opposed to solely oleoresin) compounds don't get introduced into the oil.
I think I should clarify why Gen3 oils are the most vulnerable to losing the delicate top notes when they're fresh out of the still.
Gen3 oils are usually hydro distilled at 75-80°C/167-176°F or hydro+steam distilled at 45-50°C/113-122°F (most distillers aren't able to achieve this... but all it takes is implementing some simple physics concepts). For this reason, more of the super volatile / super charged / super caffeinated top notes are captured because they don't get combusted by high heat. But since these compounds are very delicate and diffusive (low density) they run the risk of getting lost into the air... which is why Argon sealing and/or airtight sealing are so important.
As a side note, this is also the reason why a lot of customers have had Eureka! moments where they realize that Gen3 oils capture the aroma of the oleoresin, as if it was surgically excised from the wood. Its because distilling at such a low temperature ensures other (wood, as opposed to solely oleoresin) compounds don't get introduced into the oil.
I have heard from many people that I chose a terrible time to discover Oud because of rising prices and scarcity.
However Taha, with you now collaborating With Ensar & Adam to a degree I feel very optimistic for the immediate future of the art.
My hope would be that going forward you all share a little of your Oud-Fu as regarding yield increase and your tightness, Adam's pyrexmania and Daddy Ensar being Daddy Ensar it's going to look bright for everyone.
Today was line-up of some great oils: china Sayang, oud Ahmad, and tonight Dhul Q. These oils could not be different from each other but such a treat to experience throughout the day.
Today was line-up of some great oils: china Sayang, oud Ahmad, and tonight Dhul Q. These oils could not be different from each other but such a treat to experience throughout the day.
. I really wear it on days that I need something pure and beautiful. I'm so glad Ensar saved a bottle all these years just for me 
