SOTD
- Thread starter Kruger
- Start date
I'm sure you're gonna love Royal Vietnam. No need to feel like you missed out on Betonamu. 
Well, its all theory. Since I'm not a scientist, I don't know the exact science behind it, but what I can share with you are the actual changes I've observed (and yes, it works — but exactly why, I don't know):
When an oil has been fully cured (no more water/fumes in the oil), I like to seal it under an Argon blanket. This is quite the opposite of what most distillers do (they air + sun/lamp the oil). Especially in the case of Gen3 oils (and other distillers' low temp distillations as well, but to a lesser extent) there are a LOT of top note compounds bouncing around. Imagine a caffeinated 3 year old; she just can't sit still.
Exposing the oil to air will make the oil lose these super delicate / low density top note compounds into the air, especially if the bottle is repeatedly opened and closed. There are multiple interchanges that happen:
One of the things that naturally happens with distilled oils (actually even composed perfumes) is the intermarrying of scent notes. Centrifugation, Argon-sealing, or any other form of pressurization will speed up this process. Its one of the two things that happen as oils age (the other is oxidation, but I am a vehement opponent of oxidation; I don't care what anyone says).
And so, Argon-sealing being one of these compression methods not only facilitates and expedites the 'good aging' process but it also helps lock the delicate compounds in. I think I've mentioned before that there have been Gen3 oils that went from lasting a mere 3-5 minutes on my skin when they were fresh, to being easily discernable even the next day. My guess is that the initial seemingly apparent weakness was due to my nose getting super blasted with the overly intense volatile top note compounds; the Argon tamed them and locked them in, and so after the Argon treatment was complete there's no more super blasting happening any more.
And I think I may have also shared the incident where a Pyrex (yep, name-brand super-sturdy Pyrex!) container literally exploded because it was over-filled with Argon gas. This indicates just how much compression Argon applies.
Once again, ALL of this^ is just theory.
Maybe you, Kesiro, Oud_Learner, or someone else who is scientifically inclined and well-versed could correct my reasoning if its wrong. All I know is, it works.
Lavanya... I don't want to say too much about it. The more I smell it the more unsure I am if I'll ever release it. Its darn pretty (the likes of Ceylon No.1, Borneo 3000, and Nha Trang Ltd), the sort of pretty that makes you want to laugh and cry all at once.
As I'm typing this, I'm also monitoring a shipment from India. Its currently held up at customs. If it manages to go through, then it means I can start making Syed Series Indian oils. Only in that case, I think I'd be willing to part with Lavanya.
Oh, she does have a sister, Kalyani, that one I will definitely be releasing. She ain't exactly frumpy either.
Well, its all theory. Since I'm not a scientist, I don't know the exact science behind it, but what I can share with you are the actual changes I've observed (and yes, it works — but exactly why, I don't know):
When an oil has been fully cured (no more water/fumes in the oil), I like to seal it under an Argon blanket. This is quite the opposite of what most distillers do (they air + sun/lamp the oil). Especially in the case of Gen3 oils (and other distillers' low temp distillations as well, but to a lesser extent) there are a LOT of top note compounds bouncing around. Imagine a caffeinated 3 year old; she just can't sit still.
Exposing the oil to air will make the oil lose these super delicate / low density top note compounds into the air, especially if the bottle is repeatedly opened and closed. There are multiple interchanges that happen:
oil <---> air inside the bottle <---> air outside the bottle
Using Argon, those delicate notes migrate at the most into the heavy Argon blanket, and that blanket prevents these compounds from rising up into the air inside the bottle. Gently swirling the bottle every now and then helps reintroduce those compounds back into the oil.One of the things that naturally happens with distilled oils (actually even composed perfumes) is the intermarrying of scent notes. Centrifugation, Argon-sealing, or any other form of pressurization will speed up this process. Its one of the two things that happen as oils age (the other is oxidation, but I am a vehement opponent of oxidation; I don't care what anyone says).
And so, Argon-sealing being one of these compression methods not only facilitates and expedites the 'good aging' process but it also helps lock the delicate compounds in. I think I've mentioned before that there have been Gen3 oils that went from lasting a mere 3-5 minutes on my skin when they were fresh, to being easily discernable even the next day. My guess is that the initial seemingly apparent weakness was due to my nose getting super blasted with the overly intense volatile top note compounds; the Argon tamed them and locked them in, and so after the Argon treatment was complete there's no more super blasting happening any more.
And I think I may have also shared the incident where a Pyrex (yep, name-brand super-sturdy Pyrex!) container literally exploded because it was over-filled with Argon gas. This indicates just how much compression Argon applies.
Once again, ALL of this^ is just theory.
Maybe you, Kesiro, Oud_Learner, or someone else who is scientifically inclined and well-versed could correct my reasoning if its wrong. All I know is, it works.
Lavanya... I don't want to say too much about it. The more I smell it the more unsure I am if I'll ever release it. Its darn pretty (the likes of Ceylon No.1, Borneo 3000, and Nha Trang Ltd), the sort of pretty that makes you want to laugh and cry all at once.
As I'm typing this, I'm also monitoring a shipment from India. Its currently held up at customs. If it manages to go through, then it means I can start making Syed Series Indian oils. Only in that case, I think I'd be willing to part with Lavanya.
Oh, she does have a sister, Kalyani, that one I will definitely be releasing. She ain't exactly frumpy either.
Meet the Mokokchungs.
There's the dainty Lavanya. She's got that 'girl next door' sort of beauty. She's pretty (and she knows it) but she's a shy one.
There's Kalyani. She's gorgeous too, but unlike her little sister, she's more flamboyant.
And then of course there's Mahabali. Burly, stern and clearly the patriarch, his personality is intense and firm (with sisters like his, he's gotta be). He'll remind you of a Kabaddi champion... stern brow, broad chest, and twirled fat whiskers.
There's the dainty Lavanya. She's got that 'girl next door' sort of beauty. She's pretty (and she knows it) but she's a shy one.
There's Kalyani. She's gorgeous too, but unlike her little sister, she's more flamboyant.
And then of course there's Mahabali. Burly, stern and clearly the patriarch, his personality is intense and firm (with sisters like his, he's gotta be). He'll remind you of a Kabaddi champion... stern brow, broad chest, and twirled fat whiskers.
And hello Mokokchung girls! And papa. Can't wait to meet you all. Of course Syed Series Indian oils, hmm. Though I'm still hoping you'll cook a little of that kinam man.
Well they both have some of those awesome orange blossom and animalic elements. I find a bit of ambergris. Both have some kinam notes, H05, a bit more green and bittersweet with some sourish fruits. CS with a sweeter kinam note (less green), sweet tobacco and some dropdead gorgeous sinensis woody notes in the base.
Yes China Sayang and Hainan 2005 have features in common, but are quite different for two oils from a similar region - certainly advisable to get both of them.. I cannot figure out which I prefer, though I have more experiences with Hainan 2005 and totally love that one.. I've only worn China Sayang twice or three times I believe..
I think Dr Bhanny nailed it. Although I only got a chance to smell China Sayang once, It was some of the best Chinese Oud I have ever come across. This in no way lessens the quality of Hainan 05. I got a sample of Chinese exclusive and after smelling that, I contacted Ensar asking if he dig up some CE if he had hidden any. He replied that the Hainan 05 was a superior Oud because there was a kinam note in the dry down of the H05 where as the CE didn't have any Kinam notes. I got to say the Hainan 05 does have a resemblance of the Legend Royal Kinam as Ensar stated. Nevertheless the Hainan 05 and China Sayang are 2 oils which you have and keep dearly and close to you. (I hope I can get a bottle soon )
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I need more experimentation but I found the kinamic note much more obvious in the Hainan 2005 than the China Sayang.. The Hainan 2005 though is a less dense oil, in terms of scent profile - it is easier for me to identify the notes, more of a collage, while the CS is a very dense and integrated sort of scent.. More experimentation needed! Also gets into the question of what exactly is the kinamic note, and are we talking the heated or unheated kinam? Unheated kinam to me has a sort of wintergreen spicy aroma to it - once heated this wintergreen scent starts to morph into the floral-nectar-perfume aroma with rich woody undercurrents..
I can totally agree. H05 it is unmistakable. In that green, bittersweet, raw way. CS it is a little more subtle, and 100% more of the sweet, nectary, woodiness of gently heated kinam. I like that 5MeO. For me anyways, H05 has more of the raw kinam aroma, and its definitely easier to find. CS has that monkoh heated kinam aroma, and you have to listen a bit more to find it.
Again, I prefer CS over H05, but man, I can't imagine not having either!
Again, I prefer CS over H05, but man, I can't imagine not having either!
Ensar's Hainan 2005 today.
Adam was kind enough to send me a small sample when I purchased a bottle of Oud Dhul Q recently. This Oud is absolutely amazing. In a lecture on the Calgary-Cambridge model to interviewing patients, its sweetness (which has now dried down to a bittersweet note that Bhanny describes) left my nose attached to my arm and a lot of strange looks from people in the lecture! I hope I can get a bottle of this in the future, $790 is a lot but it's worth it.
Adam was kind enough to send me a small sample when I purchased a bottle of Oud Dhul Q recently. This Oud is absolutely amazing. In a lecture on the Calgary-Cambridge model to interviewing patients, its sweetness (which has now dried down to a bittersweet note that Bhanny describes) left my nose attached to my arm and a lot of strange looks from people in the lecture! I hope I can get a bottle of this in the future, $790 is a lot but it's worth it.